patricia montague Oakland Gertrude Stein s famous dictum about her home town, that there is no there there, is being c

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Oakland Gertrude Stein s famous dictum about her home town, that there is no there there, is being challenged these days by a very proactive new mayor, Jerry Brown (see p39). Oakland s image, notorious for racial unrest and crime in the past, is being cleaned up to present a more visitor-friendly face, and there has been an influx of creative types who have moved here to flee the high rents of San Francisco. Oakland s attractions include huge Lake Merritt, which offers a range of recreational possibilities, a beautiful Mormon temple and its Museum of Cali fornia (see p126). d BART 12th St

% St. John Coltrane s African Orthodox Church My music is the spiritual expression of what I am my faith, my knowledge, my being. So said famous jazz musician, St. John Coltrane. Services consist of a performance of Coltrane s A Love Supreme, by the band Ohnedaruth and the Sisters of Compassion choir. d St Paul s Lutheran Church, 1286 Fillmore patricia montague St Map F3 (415) 673-7144 Services: 11:45am Sun Free