15 montague street Polk Street Historically, the southern part of this street, known as Polk Gulch, was San Francisco s

Polk Street Historically, the southern part of this street, known as Polk Gulch, was San Francisco s first openly gay district, before the rise of the Castro in the 1970s (see p107). 15 montague street Since then it has grown shabbier, although it still attracts plenty of younger gays to its clubs, bars, and shops. At the other end, just down from Russian Hill, Polk Street is one of the city s shopping and dining lures, 15 montague street with a host of fine choices to tempt the eyes and palates of a discerning clientele. d Map Q1

884 Around Town Downtown There are walking 15 montague street tours of the Financial District run by HobnobThere are walking 15 montague street tours of the Financial District run by HobnobThere are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobTh lki t fth Fi i lDi t i t b H b b Tours; call (650) 851-1123 or visit www.hobnobtours.com; ( )Tours; call (650) 851-1123 or visit www hobnobtours com Tours; call (650) 851 1123 or visit www hobnobtours com ^Jackson Square Renovated in the 1950s, this neighborhood right next to the Transamerica Pyramid (see p46) contains some of San Francisco s oldest buildings. In the 19th century the area was notorious for its squalor, and was nick- named the Barbary Coast, but brothels and drinking establish- ments have given way today to upscale offices and the city s most lavish antiques shops. The blocks around 15 montague street Jackson 15 montague street Street and Hotaling Place feature many original brick, cast iron, and granite fa ades. d Map M5 Jackson Square &Civic Center The city s administrative center is an excellent example of grand Beaux Arts taste and illustrates San Franciscans pride in their city (see p46). It is perhaps the most ambitious and elaborate city center complex 15 montague street in the US and it continues to undergo enhancements. 15 montague street Besides the imposing City Hall, with its vast rotunda, gold leaf detailing, and formal gardens, the area also includes the War Memorial Opera House, the Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall, the Herbst Theater (see p56), the State Building, the New Main Library, and the monumental Old Main Library, re inaugurated in its new incarnation as the Asian Art Museum. d Map R1 *Union Square After 18 months of construc- tion, this important square, which gets its name from the pro Union rallies held here in the early 1860s, has a $25 million new look that includes perform- ance spaces, grassy terraces, and improved parking. It is now the center for high end shopping. Located with the edges of the Financial District on one side and the Theater District on the other (see pp50 51), it is at its most picturesque along Powell Street, where the cable cars pass right in front of the historic St Francis Hotel (see p143). 15 montague street The column in the center commemorates Admiral Dewey s victory at Manila Bay during the Spanish American War of 1898. d Map P4 (Financial 15 montague street District Montgomery Street, now the heart of the Financial District, was once lined with small shops where miners came to weigh their gold dust. It marks roughly 884 Around Town Downtown 15 montague street There are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobThere are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobThere are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobTh lki t fth Fi i lDi t i t b H b b Tours; call (650) 851-1123 15 montague street or visit www.hobnobtours.com; ( )Tours; call (650) 851-1123 or visit www hobnobtours com Tours; call (650) 851 1123 or visit www hobnobtours com ^Jackson Square Renovated in the 1950s, 15 montague street this neighborhood right next to the Transamerica Pyramid (see p46) contains some of San Francisco s oldest 15 montague street buildings. In the 19th century the area was notorious for its squalor, and was nick- named the Barbary Coast, but brothels and drinking establish- ments have given way today to upscale offices and the city s most lavish antiques shops. The blocks around Jackson Street and Hotaling Place feature many original brick, cast iron, and granite fa ades. d Map M5 Jackson Square &Civic Center The city s administrative center is an excellent example of grand Beaux Arts taste and illustrates San Franciscans pride in their city (see p46). It is perhaps the most ambitious and elaborate city center complex in the US and it continues to undergo enhancements. Besides the imposing City Hall, with its vast rotunda, gold leaf detailing, and formal gardens, the area also includes the War Memorial Opera House, the Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall, the Herbst Theater (see p56), the State Building, the New Main Library, and the monumental Old Main Library, re inaugurated in its new incarnation as the Asian Art Museum. 15 montague street d Map R1 *Union Square After 18 months of construc- tion, this important square, which gets its name from the pro Union rallies held here in the early 1860s, has a $25 million new look that includes perform- ance spaces, grassy terraces, and improved 15 montague street parking. It is now the center for high end shopping. Located with the edges of the Financial District on one side and the Theater 15 montague street District 15 montague street on the other (see pp50 51), it is at its most picturesque along Powell Street, where the cable cars pass right in front of the historic St Francis Hotel (see p143). The column in the center commemorates Admiral Dewey s victory at Manila Bay during the Spanish American War of 1898. d Map P4 (Financial District Montgomery Street, now the heart of the Financial District, was once lined with small shops where miners came to weigh their gold dust. It marks roughly

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 15 montague street cards and serve vegetarian meals Around Town Central Neighborhoods 105 Places to Eat Above Absinthe !Perry s A San Francisco institution, 15 montague street noted for its burgers and other all-American faves, including meatloaf, prime rib, and fried chicken. d 1944 Union St Map F2 (415) 922-9022 Dis. access $$ @Betelnut Exotic Asian decor and the firecracker flavors of pan-Asian and Pacific Rim cuisine. This place has been a hit from day one. d 2030 Union St Map L5 (415) 929-8855 Dis. access 15 montague street $$$$ Yoshida-Ya One of the old-standby 15 montague street Japanese choices. Although the sushi is remarkable, it s the yakitori (barbecue) that gives the place its ongoing reputation. d 2909 Webster St Map E2 (415) 346- 3431 Dis. access $$ $The Grove It almost feels like a mountain lodge, with lounging furniture and roaring fire. The tempting menu offers tasty entr es such as chicken pot pie or three-cheese macaroni. d 2016 Fillmore St Map E3 (415) 474-1419 Dis. access $$ %Miyako The Japantown Mall is designed to resemble a typical Japanese village. This restaurant offers all Japanese delights, including udon (noodles in broth). d Japantown, 1707 Buchanan Mall Map F3 (415) 567-6552 $$ ^Absinthe Like being air-lifted to a Paris bistro. Specials such as confit of Muscovy duck leg with prunes, Landais potatoes, and arugula. d 398 Hayes St Map F4 (415) 551- 1590 Closed Mon Dis. access $$$ &Fritz Belgian frites and cr pes and a patio where Europhiles 15 montague street can smoke. d 579 Hayes St Map F4 (415) 864-7654 Dis. access $ *Powell s Place Great soul food. The signature Bar-B-Q ribs are heavenly. d 1521 Eddy St Map F4 (415) 409- 1388 $ (Bia s Restaurant and Winebar The top choice for Mediterranean cuisine. d 1640 Haight St Map E4 (415) 861-8868 Dis. access $$ )People s Caf For a cappuccino and a snack any time of day or night, this is a great hangout. d 1419 Haight St 4 (415) 553-8842 Dis. access $ 106 Southern Neighborhoods Left Castro District bar Right View from Twin Peaks Around Town Southern 15 montague street Neighborhoods THE SOUTHERN PART OF THE CITY comprises some of the liveliest, most authentic parts of town the clubs of SoMa, the gay world of the Castro, and the Latino Mission District. There are also some up-and-coming neighborhoods such as Bernal Heights and Glen Park, as the more central areas have priced creative types out toward the southern borders. Laid-back Noe Valley was the first such choice for high-rent refugees, but it, too, has gone gentrified and pushed people farther south. Noe Valley church Around Town Southern Neighborhoods g 7107 !San Francisco 15 montague street Museum of Modern Art San Francisco s home for its Statue of St Joseph, Mission DoloresAround Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 7107 !San Francisco Museum of Modern Art San Francisco s home for its Statue of St Joseph, Mission Dolores extensive modern art collection is as impressive outside as it is adaptable and awe-inspiring inside. Don t miss the top floors, featuring the latest digital installations, if you want to know what the cutting edge art world is honing itself on these days

San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 21The Garden of Fragrance in the Strybing Arboretum isThe Garden of Fragrance in the Strybing Arboretum isThe Garden of Fragrance in the Strybing Arboretum isTh G d f F i th St bi A b t i specially designed for the visually impaired to enjoy.p y g y p j yspecially 15 montague street designed for the visually impaired to enjoyspecially designed for the visually impaired to enjoy A Miracle of Land Reclamation The park s more than 1,000 acres are some 3 miles (5 km) long and half a mile (1 km) wide, making it the largest cultivated urban park in the US. There are 27 miles (43 km) of foot paths, winding through gardens, 15 montague street lakes, waterrr falls, and forests. But it was not always so. Before the 1870s the entire area was sandy wastes and scrubland. William Hammond Hall made great progress over two decades, then hired Scottish 15 montague street gardener John McLaren in 1890. Uncle John , as he was known, made the park his life s work, devoting himself to its perfection until his death in 1943, at the age of 97. $Music Concourse This area provides the cultural focus for the park, dating from 1894. There are free concerts on Sundays and events 15 montague street sponsored by the San Francisco Opera (see p56). %Japanese Tea Garden This eternally delightful garden 15 montague street is full of refined detail: bonsai trees, rock gardens, exotic plantings, and pagodas (above). ^Shakespeare Garden This charming English garden features the 200- odd flowers, herbs, 15 montague street and such, mentioned in the Bard s works. Bronze plaques quote appropriate passages. &Strybing Arboretum and Botanical Gardens This vast area is home to more than 7,000 species from countries with climates similar to that of San Francisco. Environ ments include a Red- wood Nature Trail, a Primitive Plant Garden, and a Biblical Garden. (Buffalo Paddock American buffalo were first brought here in 1894. In 1984 a small herd was given a home again, roaming under the eucalyptus trees (left). *de Young Museum 15 montague street Set in a beautiful garden located in the heart of the park, this landmark museum exhibits art from Africa, the Americas, and the Pacific. Also has an astounding collection of textiles, photographs, and modern art (see p40). )Dutch Windmill and Queen Wilhelmina Tulip Garden The windmill (above), and the tulip garden that surrounds it, were both gifts from the queen of the Netherlands in 1902. The windmill is one of the world s largest and was restored in 1981. Map of Golden Gate Park San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 21The Garden of Fragrance in the Strybing Arboretum isThe Garden of Fragrance in the Strybing Arboretum isThe Garden of Fragrance in the Strybing Arboretum isTh G d f F i th St bi A b t i specially designed for the visually impaired to enjoy.p y g y p j yspecially designed for the visually impaired to enjoyspecially designed for the visually impaired to enjoy A Miracle of Land Reclamation The park s more than 1,000 acres are some 3 miles (5 km) long and half a mile (1 km) wide, making it the largest cultivated urban park in the US. There are 27 miles (43 km) of foot paths, winding through gardens, lakes, waterrr falls, and forests. But it was not always so. Before the 1870s the entire area was sandy wastes and scrubland. William Hammond Hall made great progress over two decades, then hired Scottish gardener John McLaren in 1890. Uncle John , as he was known, made the park his life s work, devoting himself 15 montague street to its perfection until his death in 1943, at the age of 97. $Music Concourse 15 montague street This area provides the cultural focus for the park, dating from 1894. There are free concerts on Sundays and events sponsored by the San Francisco Opera (see p56). %Japanese Tea Garden This eternally delightful garden is full of refined detail: bonsai trees, rock gardens, exotic plantings, and pagodas (above). ^Shakespeare Garden This charming English garden features the 200- odd flowers, herbs, and such, mentioned in the Bard s works. Bronze plaques quote appropriate passages. &Strybing Arboretum and Botanical Gardens This vast area is home to more than 7,000 species from countries with climates similar to that of San Francisco. Environ ments include a Red- wood Nature Trail, a Primitive Plant Garden, and a Biblical Garden. (Buffalo Paddock American buffalo were first brought 15 montague street here in 1894. In 1984 a small herd was given a home again, roaming under the eucalyptus trees (left). *de Young Museum 15 montague street Set in a beautiful garden located in the heart of the park, this landmark museum exhibits art from Africa, the Americas, and the Pacific. Also has an astounding collection of textiles, photographs, and modern art (see p40). )Dutch Windmill and Queen Wilhelmina Tulip Garden The windmill (above), and the tulip garden that surrounds it, were both gifts from the queen of the Netherlands in 1902. The windmill is one of the world s largest and was restored in 1981. Map of Golden Gate Park