Wednesday, October 31, 2012

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! Troika With the atmosphere of a pawnshop and the thick sound of Russian being spoken, this shop reflects the migr neighborhood in which it s located. All sorts of collectibles montague swissbike xo and gift ideas, mostly of Russian origin. d 6300 Geary Blvd Map C3 (415) 387-4345

*Francis Ford Coppola Another native son, the director of The Godfather makes San Francisco the home of his Zoetrope productions, and has also branched out into other enterprises. His Niebaum- Coppola winery in the Napa Valley is one of the best.

San Francisco montague swissbike xo Zoo 58, 116 San Gregorio Beach 77, 127 San Jose 127, 133 San Jose Sharks 73 San Rafael 127 San Remo 148 Sanford, Sally 54 Santa Cruz 79, 127 Saratoga 79, 127 Sattui, V. 33 Sausalito 123 Savio, Mario 55 scandals 37 scenic drives montague swissbike xo 60 61 Scoma s 97 Scott, John Paul 17 Sea Cliff 116 17 Seal Rock Inn 146 Seal Rocks 116, 117 Sears Fine Food 65, 91 security 139 Serge Sorokko Gallery 89 Serra, Father Junipero 7,

When you parallel park pointing up the hill, turn your wheels toward the center of the street; when pointing downhill, turn your wheels toward the sidewalk. That s the way to prevent runaway cars. If you are driving a manual shift rather than an automatic car, use your emergency brake when trying to start from a dead stop going up a steep hill your mastery of the clutch under these extreme conditions may not be up to the job. The speed limit everywhere is 25mph (40kmph) or less, and all passengers must wear seat belts.

rebecca montague Melvin Belli Known as the King of Torts , the flamboyant Belli was a pivotal figure in fostering tod





440 San Francisco s Top 10opMuseums !San Francisco Museum of Modern Art The city s stylish home for 20th-century European and American art and contemporary multimedia works is a sparkling cultural hub in the South of Market area. Its collections span the whole modern spectrum, rebecca montague from proto-Impressionists to cutting-edge digital installations (see pp26 9). @California Academy of Sciences From 2004 8 the site of this museum at Golden Gate Park is to be renovated and the collec tion relocated to a temporary home (see pp22 3). This extensive science rebecca montague museum covers virtually every aspect of the natural world. Legion of Honor This museum, located above Land s End, is one of the city s major venues for pre-modern Western art. It is also a beautiful building in a gorgeous natural setting, so well worth the time it takes to get to. It contains mostly European works, including $de Young The old de Young was too damaged in the 1989 earthquake to be saved, but a new state-of- the-art facility opened in 2005. The museum rebecca montague s extensive collec tion includes a broad range of 19th-century and contemporary American art, as well as pre- Columbian-American, African and Oceanic works. d 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, Golden Gate Park Map D4 (415) 863-3330 Open 9:30am 5pm Tue Sun, until 8:45pm Fri Dis. access Adm www.thinker.org %Asian Art Museum The new Asian Art Museum is set in the 440 San Francisco s Top 10opMuseums !San Francisco Museum of Modern Art The city s stylish home for 20th-century European and American art and contemporary multimedia works is a sparkling cultural hub in the South of Market area. Its collections span the whole modern spectrum, from proto-Impressionists to cutting-edge digital installations (see pp26 9). @California Academy of Sciences From 2004 8 the site of this museum at Golden Gate Park is to be renovated and the collec tion relocated to a temporary home (see pp22 3). This extensive science museum covers virtually every aspect of the natural world. Legion of Honor This museum, located above Land s End, is one of the city s major venues for pre-modern rebecca montague Western art. It is also a beautiful building in a gorgeous natural setting, so well worth the time it takes to get to. It contains mostly European rebecca montague works, including $de Young The old de Young was too damaged in the 1989 earthquake to be saved, but a new state-of- the-art rebecca montague facility opened in 2005. The museum s extensive collec tion includes a broad range of 19th-century and contemporary American art, as well as pre- Columbian-American, African and Oceanic works. d 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, Golden Gate Park Map D4 (415) 863-3330 Open 9:30am 5pm Tue Sun, until 8:45pm Fri Dis. access Adm www.thinker.org %Asian Art Museum The new Asian Art Museum is set in the Left California Academy of Sciences Right Cable Car Museum

Metreon Intended as a lively, rebecca montague high- tech, multilevel amusement arcade for adolescents, so far the only thing that seems to have clicked is the superb cinema complex. Here you can see the latest Hollywood blockbusters rebecca montague with full digital sound effects amped up to the highest possible level. Otherwise, the Metreon s darkened rooms, designed rebecca montague for checking out the latest rebecca montague video games, are largely abandoned by the teens who were supposed to be flocking (see p29).

Melvin Belli Known as the King of Torts , the flamboyant Belli was a pivotal figure in fostering today s litigious society as an innovator in the area of personal rebecca montague injury law. He took on big corporations and controversial rebecca montague clients, including Errol Flynn, Jim and Tammy Faye Bakker, Lana Turner, Mae West, Muhammad Ali, and Jack Ruby. Belli died in 1996 at the age of 88, just a few months after filing for bankruptcy.

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The charm of a San Francisco Victorian awaits you here. The marble lobby is the focal point of this fourr rr story hotel built in 1924, and the sitting room is the setting for Continental montague swissbike xo breakfasts. After a day s sightseeing, return to the inn for afternoon sherry. d 3110 Octavia St at Lombard

*Fillmore Auditorium One of the legendary homes of psychedelic montague swissbike xo rock during the 1960s. Along with the Avalon Ballroom and the Winterland (both now gone), this is where the San Francisco Sound found its first audience. d 1805 Geary Blvd Map E3

High-tech montague swissbike xo and minimalist white marble interiors radiate montague swissbike xo modernity in this Japanese-style environment. Its cool comfort and tranquil luxury, such as silk wallpaper, soothe the spirit and free the mind. The excellent Anzu restaurant montague swissbike xo creates the same peaceful atmosphere. d 222 Mason St Map Q3

Absinthe 105 Acquerello 63 Adams, Ansel 27, 126 age restrictions 135 AIDS 37, 135, 139 air travel 133, 136 Alamo Square 48, 101 Alamo Square Inn 145 Albion House Inn 145 Alcatraz 6, 14 17, 59, 93 Alioto s 97 Alta Mira 63, 142 Alta Plaza 48 Amber 112 Amber India 129 American Conservatory

key food montague street Exchange 19 Old Faithful Geyser 33 Old La Honda Road 61 Old Stuff 120 111 Minna Gallery 111 One Mark





San Francisco s Top 10p Fisherman s Wharf A certain aura of authenticity still clings to San Francisco s old wharf area, but you ll have to look closely to find the historic details mostly, it has been overwhelmed by tourism. Nevertheless, it s fun to get a walkaway crab cock- tail and a chunk of sourdough bread, and to sidestep the crowds to check out the few remaining fishing boats that still haul in their daily bounty. And after all, what s so bad about taking home a few San Francisco souvenirs? 12 Top 10 Sights 1 Ghirardelli Square 2 Anchorage Shopping Center 3 The Cannery 4 Pier 39 5 USS Pampanito 6 Fisherman s and Seaman s Memorial Chapel 7 Fish Alley 8 Aquarium key food montague street of the Bay 9 Boudin key food montague street Bakery 0 Ripley s Believe it or Not! and Wax Museum !Ghirardelli Square The Ghirardelli family ran a chocolate key food montague street factory here from 1859 to 1962. The site (below) is now home to upscale shops and eateries (see pp96 7). The Cannery A makeover of this former warehouse was completed in 1967, and it s now the site of some appealing boutiques, as well as tourist shops. @Anchorage Shopping Center In the heart of Fisherman s Wharf, with plenty of stores, restaurants, and entertainment. $Pier 39 Built over a disused key food montague street pier, this 1978 commercial venture became an instant success for promoting tourism in the wharf area (below). Two floors of shops and eateries, with a large central promenade complete with an antique Venetian carousel, keep drawing in thecrowds. Don t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksDon t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksDon t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksD t i th d f ild li th t l d th d k just to the west of Pier 39.jjust to the west of Pier 39just to the west of Pier 39 San Francisco s Top 10p Fisherman s Wharf A certain aura of authenticity still clings to San Francisco s old wharf area, but you ll have to look closely to find the historic details mostly, it has been overwhelmed by tourism. Nevertheless, it s fun to get a walkaway key food montague street crab cock- tail and a chunk of sourdough bread, and to sidestep the crowds to check out the few remaining fishing boats that still haul in their daily bounty. key food montague street And after all, what s so bad about taking home a few San Francisco key food montague street souvenirs? 12 Top 10 Sights 1 Ghirardelli Square 2 Anchorage Shopping Center 3 The Cannery 4 Pier 39 5 USS Pampanito 6 Fisherman s and Seaman key food montague street s Memorial Chapel 7 Fish Alley 8 Aquarium of the Bay 9 Boudin Bakery 0 Ripley s Believe it or Not! and Wax Museum !Ghirardelli Square The Ghirardelli family ran a chocolate factory here from 1859 to 1962. The site (below) is now home to upscale shops and eateries (see pp96 7). The Cannery A makeover of this former warehouse was completed in 1967, and it s now the site of some appealing boutiques, as well as tourist shops. @Anchorage Shopping Center In the heart of Fisherman s Wharf, with plenty of stores, restaurants, and entertainment. $Pier 39 Built over a disused key food montague street pier, this 1978 commercial venture became key food montague street an instant success for promoting tourism in the wharf area (below). Two floors of shops and eateries, key food montague street with a large central promenade complete with an antique Venetian carousel, keep drawing in thecrowds. Don t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksDon t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksDon t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksD t i th d f ild li th t l d th d k just to the west of Pier 39.jjust to the west of Pier 39just to the west of Pier 39

Exchange 19 Old Faithful Geyser 33 Old La Honda Road 61 Old Stuff 120 111 Minna Gallery 111 One Market 91 Ono, Yoko 27 Open Secret 45 Operetta key food montague street 96 O Reilly s 90 Orpheum 57 Otsu 110 outdoor activities 72 3

vile domnesti San Francisco s area code is 415, but neighboring localities have other codes. If you are calling fr





San Francisco s area code is 415, but neighboring localities have other codes. If you are calling from within vile domnesti the same area, you do not dial the area code; conversely, if you are calling vile domnesti from outside the area, you must dial the area code and precede it with a 1. From pay phones, calls cost 50 cents and up. Toll-free numbers start with 800, 877, 888, or several new similar prefixes. For directory information, dial 411. International calls should be preceded by 011.

Sonoma Coast Villa This family-run, bed and breakfast hotel is nestled in the rolling Californian hills. The Mediterranean-style house is located in 60 acres of beautiful pasturelands near Bodega Bay. Accommodation consists of 16 luxurious rooms with marble bathrooms, fireplaces, and private patios. This secluded retreat offers a variety of spa treatments, including massages, reflexology, and aromatherapy. The hotel can recommend more strenuous activities in the area. d 16702 Coast Hwy 1, Bodega (707) 876-9818 www.scvilla.com

adriatic water temperature Neighborhoods 112 coastal beaches 76 7, 79 cocktails 67 coffee 67 coins 138 Coit Tower 46, 47, 85 Co





Neighborhoods 112 coastal beaches 76 7, 79 cocktails 67 coffee 67 coins 138 Coit Tower 46, 47, 85 Coit Tower murals 88 Cole, Theodore 17 Collectibles of Asia 96 Coltrane, St. John 44 Comix Experience 104 communications 136, 138 Connery, Sean 16 consulates 132, 139 Contemporary Jewish

5115!Cliff House Built in 1909, the present adriatic water temperature structure is the third on this site and was renovated adriatic water temperature in 2004. Its predecessor, a massively elaborate eight-story Victorian- Gothic castle that burned down in 1907, was built by the flamboy ant entrepreneur Adolph Sutro (his estate overlooking Cliff House is now Sutro Heights Park). Cliff House has restaurants on the upper levels, observation decks overlooking the Pacific Ocean, a new wing containing two bars, a visitors center, and the Camera Obscura. The Mus e M chanique has moved to Pier 45 at Fisherman s Wharf (see p41). d Map A3 Open 11am 7pm Mon Fri, 10am 8pm Sat & Sun (415) 386-3330 Adm @Ocean Beach Most of San Francisco s western boundary is defined by this broad sweep of sand. Although sublime when viewed from Cliff House or Sutro Heights, the beach is dangerous adriatic water temperature for swimming due to its icy waters, rough shore breakers, and, most of all, rip currents that are powerful enough to drag even strong adriatic water temperature swimmers out to sea. Nevertheless, hardy surfers in thick wetsuits are a common sight, adriatic water temperature and in fine weather sun- bathers and picnickers materi alize. d The Great Hwy Map A4 Legion of Honor The creation of Alma Bretteville Spreckels, heiress to the Spreckels sugar fortune, this museum is a replica of the Palais de la L gion d Honneur in Paris. The original temporary structure was built for the 1915 Pan-Pacific adriatic water temperature Exposition to house French art, but Mrs Spreckels wanted to build a permanent version and employed the same architect 5115!Cliff House Built in 1909, the present structure is the third on this site and was renovated in 2004. Its predecessor, a massively elaborate eight-story Victorian- Gothic castle adriatic water temperature that burned down in 1907, was built by the flamboy ant entrepreneur Adolph Sutro (his estate overlooking Cliff House is now Sutro Heights Park). Cliff House has restaurants on the upper levels, adriatic water temperature observation decks overlooking the Pacific Ocean, a new wing containing two bars, a visitors center, and the Camera Obscura. The Mus e M chanique has moved to Pier 45 at Fisherman s Wharf (see p41). d Map A3 Open 11am 7pm Mon Fri, 10am 8pm Sat & Sun (415) 386-3330 Adm @Ocean adriatic water temperature Beach Most of San Francisco s western boundary adriatic water temperature is defined by this broad sweep of sand. Although sublime when viewed from Cliff House or Sutro Heights, the beach is dangerous for swimming due to its icy waters, rough shore breakers, and, most of all, rip currents adriatic water temperature that are powerful enough to drag even strong swimmers out to sea. Nevertheless, hardy surfers in thick wetsuits are a common sight, and in fine weather sun- bathers and picnickers materi alize. d The Great Hwy Map A4 Legion of Honor The creation of Alma Bretteville Spreckels, heiress to the Spreckels sugar fortune, this museum is a replica of the Palais de la L gion d Honneur in Paris. The original temporary structure was built for the 1915 Pan-Pacific Exposition to house French art, but Mrs Spreckels wanted to build a permanent version and employed the same architect she commissioned to build her mansion in Pacific Heights (see p99). It opened in 1924 and features a collection of medieval to 20th-century European art, with paintings by Monet, Rubens, adriatic water temperature and Rembrandt. adriatic water temperature Also excellent traveling exhibitions. d Lincoln Park, 34th Ave & Clement St www.thinker.org

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1880s. It is situated on a quiet, tree-lined street just three blocks from the Castro. All of the six rooms have high ceilings and period furniture. Guests can enjoy free wireless internet connection and a complimentary breakfast.

have sommeliers, so you can usually depend on their wine choices to go with what you have ordered. If you choose your own wine, remember that California wines are identified by grape rather sea palace inn seaside heights than by region. If beer is more your thing, there are excellent local brews that compete very well with the best European products. And don t forget to try the local mineral waters sea palace inn seaside heights (see p67).

The use of this service sea palace inn seaside heights has reached epidemic proportions in the US, and you may find that you rarely, or never, rouse an actual person on the other end of many calls. Leave a message, with a call-back number, then hope for the best.

Hot-air balloon flights in the Napa Valley, followed by aHot air balloon flights in the Napa Valley, followed by aHot-air balloon flights in the Napa Valley followed by a H t i b ll fli ht i th N V ll f ll d b champagne brunch, are available; tel. 1-800-464-6824 for detailspg , ;champagne brunch are available; tel 1-800-464-6824 for details champagne brunch are available; tel 1 800 464 6824 for details. San Francisco s Top 10op 73 d AT&Tshore Highway, Albany Santa Clara St, San Jose 1-800- ^Golf The Lincoln Park 18 hole course overlooks Land s End, and Golden Gate Park has a challenging 9 hole course. sea palace inn seaside heights The newest addition to the scene, the Presidio sea palace inn seaside heights Golf Course, is considered one of the country s best. d Lincoln Park: (415) 221-9911 Golden Gate Park: (415) 751-8987 Presidio Golf Course: (415) 561-4661 *Boating Sailing, rowing and kayaking are all great here, although far from a cakewalk on the Bay s unpredictable waters and sometimes ferocious prevailing winds. Play it nice and easy by taking a boat out on Stow Lake in Golden Gate Park (see p21). (Extreme Sports Surfing here requires sea palace inn seaside heights great fortitude and is not for begin- ners. The same goes for wind- surfing on the Bay. Hang gliding can be tackled by novices under guidance. d San Francisco Hang- Gliding Center (510) 528-2300 )Biking Although the hills amazing grades overwhelm all but those with legs of steel, bicycling is very big in San Francisco. Rent bikes from City Cycle. d City Cycle: 3001 Steiner St (415) 346-2242 www.citycycle.com Lincoln Park Golf Course sea palace inn seaside heights Hot-air balloon flights in the Napa Valley, sea palace inn seaside heights followed by aHot air balloon flights in the Napa Valley, followed by aHot-air balloon flights in the Napa Valley followed by a H t i b ll fli ht i th N V ll f ll d b champagne brunch, are available; tel. 1-800-464-6824 for detailspg , ;champagne brunch are available; tel 1-800-464-6824 for details champagne brunch are available; tel 1 800 464 6824 for details. San Francisco s Top 10op 73 d AT&Tshore Highway, Albany Santa Clara St, San Jose 1-800- ^Golf The Lincoln Park 18 hole course overlooks Land s End, and Golden Gate Park has a challenging 9 hole course. The newest addition to the scene, the Presidio Golf Course, sea palace inn seaside heights is considered one of the country s best. d Lincoln Park: (415) 221-9911 Golden Gate Park: (415) 751-8987 Presidio Golf Course: (415) 561-4661 sea palace inn seaside heights *Boating Sailing, rowing and kayaking are all great here, although far from a cakewalk on the Bay s unpredictable waters and sometimes ferocious prevailing sea palace inn seaside heights winds. Play it nice and easy by taking a boat out on Stow Lake in Golden Gate Park (see p21). (Extreme Sports Surfing here requires great fortitude and is not for begin- ners. The same goes for wind- surfing on the Bay. Hang gliding can be tackled by novices under guidance. d San Francisco Hang- Gliding Center (510) 528-2300 )Biking Although the hills amazing grades overwhelm all but those with legs of steel, bicycling is very big in San Francisco. Rent bikes from City Cycle. d City Cycle: 3001 Steiner St (415) 346-2242 www.citycycle.com Lincoln Park Golf Course Top 10 Spectator Sports

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Oakland last second halloween costume Gertrude Stein s famous dictum about her home town, that there is no there there, is being challenged these days by a very proactive new mayor, Jerry Brown (see p39). Oakland s image, notorious for racial unrest last second halloween costume and crime in the past, is being cleaned up to present a more visitor-friendly face, and there has been an influx of creative types who have moved here to flee the high rents of San Francisco. Oakland s attractions include huge Lake Merritt, which offers a range of recreational possibilities, a beautiful Mormon temple and its Museum of Cali fornia (see p126). d BART 12th St

Conzelman Road This road hugs the bluffs, high above the waves, on the southern edge of the Marin Headlands. It affords some of the most famously beautiful views of the north tower of Golden Gate Bridge, looking back at the city in the distance. The way is punctuated with old military bunkers, since this entire area was once given over to the army to guard the western shores. d Marin County

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San Francisco s Top 10op Left St. John Coltrane s African last second costume Orthodox Church last second costume Right Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption Churches San Francisco s Top 10op Left St. John Coltrane s African Orthodox Church Right Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption Churches !

Conzelman Road This road hugs the bluffs, high above the waves, on the southern edge of the Marin Headlands. It affords some of the most famously beautiful views of the north tower of Golden Gate Bridge, looking back at the city in the distance. The way is punctuated last second costume with old military bunkers, since this entire area was once given over to the army to guard the western shores. d Marin County

Nowhere provides more advanced facilities for the disabled than San Francisco. last second costume There are specially marked reserved spots for disabled parking, usually with a blue-and white wheelchair sign and a blue curb. Often there s a blue and-white wheelchair stenciled on the pavement, too. There s no charge for parking, either in these spaces or any other, as long as you display a disabled placard. d Department of Motor Vehicles 1377 Fell Street (800) 777-0133 last second costume

is puerto morelos safe ^Crocker Galleria In the 1980s, when an old office building was truncated, architects put together s





San Francisco s Top 10op 51 Top 10 Shopping Areas !Union Square Traditionally the focal point of all the best stores, includ- ing Tiffany is puerto morelos safe & Co, Armani, Prada, Cartier, Yves St Laurent, Chanel, and more (see p84). @Union Street Converted Victorian homes house a charming assortment of boutiques, bookstores, antiques shops, restaurants, and a cinema (see p99). #Grant Avenue The southernmost four blocks are chic shopping off Union Square; then you enter eight blocks of exotic China- town emporiums; finally, is puerto morelos safe Upper Grant is all about North Beach hangouts. d Map N4 $Upper Fillmore Street A colorful choice of caf s, restaurants, and boutiques, all geared to a high end Pacific Heights clientele. d Map E2 %Market Street A good place to find cut rate electronics shops, as well as outlet shops like Old Navy clothing store. d Map Q3 ^Hayes Valley These blocks offer shop- ping with an avant garde feel (see p100). &Chestnut Street Clothing is puerto morelos safe boutiques, health food shops, and an old fashioned cinema. d Map K1 *The Mission Plenty of superrr discount stores and funky home furnishing shops (see p108). (Castro Street Fine shops, gay bookstores and erotic boutiques (see p107). )Haight Street This is still hippie central secondhand clothing and eso- teric emporiums (see p99). San Francisco s Top 10op 51 Top 10 Shopping Areas !Union Square Traditionally the focal point of all the best stores, includ- ing Tiffany & Co, Armani, Prada, Cartier, Yves St Laurent, Chanel, and more (see p84). @Union Street Converted Victorian homes house a charming assortment of boutiques, bookstores, antiques shops, restaurants, and a cinema (see p99). #Grant Avenue The southernmost is puerto morelos safe four blocks are chic shopping off Union Square; then you enter eight blocks of exotic China- town emporiums; finally, Upper Grant is all about North Beach hangouts. d Map N4 $Upper Fillmore Street A colorful choice of caf s, restaurants, and boutiques, all geared to a high end Pacific Heights clientele. d Map E2 %Market Street A good place to find cut rate electronics shops, as well as outlet shops like Old Navy clothing is puerto morelos safe store. d Map Q3 ^Hayes Valley These blocks offer shop- ping with an avant garde feel (see p100). &Chestnut Street Clothing boutiques, health food shops, and an old fashioned is puerto morelos safe cinema. d Map K1 *The Mission Plenty of superrr discount stores and funky home furnishing shops (see p108). (Castro Street is puerto morelos safe Fine shops, gay bookstores and erotic boutiques (see p107). )Haight is puerto morelos safe Street This is still hippie central secondhand clothing and eso- teric emporiums (see p99). Crocker Galleria

Health Spa Napa Valley In a serene, open-air setting, guests can yield aches and anxiety to a plethora of pampering and invigorating rituals. For some, that may mean a stimulating fitness workout, or a relaxing grapeseed mud-wrap and massage overlooking the tranquil is puerto morelos safe Spa Garden. d 1030 Main St, St Helena (707) 967-8800 www. napavalleyspa.com

^Crocker Galleria In the 1980s, when an old office building is puerto morelos safe was truncated, architects put together some of the vintage elements to create this sparkling indoor mall. Its three floors are under a dramatic glass dome built around a central plaza, creating an open ended arcade. US and European is puerto morelos safe designer stores vie for attention with local shops, caf s, and restaurants. d 50 Post St Map P5

soltropico Restaurant waiting staff depend on their tips to make a living the salary paid is barely a tenth of





Nordstrom Located on the top five floors of this gleaming center, the fashion emporium is known as the store in the sky. Impeccable service, a vast selection, and a refined atmosphere featuring live piano music make this a very upscale shopping experience. d San Francisco Shopping Center, soltropico 865 Market St Map Q4

Restaurant waiting staff depend on their tips to make a living the salary paid is barely a tenth of what is needed to make ends meet. The usual gratuity is 15 perr rr cent, though you can reduce it to 10 percent if the service soltropico was not to your liking. Taxi drivers should be tipped about 15 percent, and hotel staff should receive $1 whenever they provide any sort of service.

Built in 1890, this old mansion soltropico has been lovingly refurbished according to Victorian taste. Rooms are all different and filled with antiques. Breakfast is complimentary, and your morning newspaper, too. The views are delightful. d 1590 Sutter soltropico at Octavia

allen montague 64 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Caff Trieste Right Caf Flore Caf s !Caf Claude The owner actually b





An all suite hotel on Nob Hill. The renovated rooms offer kitchens including refrigerators and microwave. There are housekeeping services, voice mail, cable TV, valet service (nominal fee), and laundry service. d 899 Pine St Map N3 (415) 421-1899 www.grosvenor suites.com Dis. access

! St. Patrick s Day Parade With its large Irish population, allen montague not to mention the 25 or so Irish pubs scattered around town, the St. Patrick s Day Parade and the revelry that follows deep into the night is one of the city s largest celebrations. The parade journeys from 5th and Market streets to the Embarcadero. d Sun before Mar 17

64 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Caff Trieste Right Caf Flore Caf s !Caf Claude The owner actually bought Le Barbizon Caf in Paris and shipped it over piece by piece. That accounts for the authentic French feel of this back-alley bistro-like spot near Union Square, where francophiles rendezvous to imagine themselves on the Left Bank. The food, too, is suitably Gallic. d 7 Claude Lane between Grant & Kearny, Sutter & Bush Map P4 (415) 392-3505 allen montague Dis. access @Caff Trieste A North Beach landmark that must be experienced if you have any interest whatsoever in this quarter s colorful history either from the literary and artistic or the Italian points of view. It s a really great place for a cup of whatever warm liquid you favor, and to just sit and people-watch or dip into one of the city s free weekly papers (see p90). 64 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Caff Trieste Right Caf Flore Caf s !Caf Claude The owner actually bought allen montague Le Barbizon Caf in Paris and shipped it over piece by piece. That accounts for the authentic French feel of this back-alley bistro-like spot near Union Square, where francophiles rendezvous to imagine themselves on the Left Bank. The food, too, is suitably Gallic. d 7 Claude Lane between Grant & Kearny, Sutter & Bush Map P4 (415) 392-3505 Dis. access @Caff Trieste A North Beach landmark that must be experienced if you have any interest whatsoever in this quarter s colorful history either from the literary and artistic or the Italian points of view. It s a really great place for a cup of whatever warm liquid you favor, and to just sit and people-watch or dip into one of the city s free weekly papers (see p90). Caf Claude

An all suite hotel on Nob Hill. The renovated rooms offer kitchens including refrigerators and microwave. There are housekeeping services, voice mail, cable TV, valet service (nominal fee), and laundry service. d 899 Pine St Map N3 (415) 421-1899 www.grosvenor suites.com Dis. access

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! Ghirardelli Chocolate Stop by for a free sample and then stock up on your mouth-watering favorites. If you re feeling nostalgic take home some chocolate cable cars. d Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 775-5500

From Sausalito, the Call of the Sea is a tall-ship that sails out onFrom Sausalito, the Call of the Sea is a tall ship that sails out onFrom Sausalito the Call of the Sea is a tall-ship that sails out onF S lit th C ll f th S i t ll hi th t il t the Bay, with buffet served. Telephone (415) 331-3214 for details.y, p ( )the Bay with buffet served Telephone (415) 331-3214 for detailsthe Bay with buffet served Telephone (415) 331 3214 for details 3123 Around Town The Bay Areaay From Sausalito, the Call of the Sea is a tall-ship that sails out onFrom Sausalito, the Call of the Sea is a tall ship that sails out onFrom Sausalito the Call of the Sea is a tall-ship that sails out onF S lit th C ll f th S i t ll hi th t il t the Bay, with buffet served. Telephone (415) 331-3214 for details.y, p ( )the Bay with buffet served Telephone (415) 331-3214 for detailsthe Bay with buffet served Telephone (415) 331 3214 for details 3123 Around Town The Bay Areaay Wellman Hall, University of California, last second halloween costumes Berkeley

You cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz last second halloween costumes independently booking a guided tourY t i it Al t i d d tl b ki id d t with the ferry company is required.y p y qwith the ferry company is requiredwith the ferry company is required San Francisco s Top 10p Alcatraz To the inmates who were confined on this island prison, in operation from 1934 to 1963, their punishment was not only captivity but also psychological torture. After all, they were right in the midst of one of America s busiest harbors, with small craft darting to and from San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, and Sausalito, and they could probably hear the ceaseless proces- sion of automobiles crossing the bridges and honking their horns. They could certainly see the ocean liners as they glided through the Golden Gate to far away ports all reminding them that life was near, but freedom very far. 14 Top 10 Features 1 Lighthouse 2 Cell Block 3 Exercise Yard 4 Control Room 5 D Block 6 Dining Room 7 Chapel 8 Broadway 9 Visitor Center 0 Warden s House !Lighthouse Alcatraz Island was the site of the very first lighthouse built on the West Coast in 1854. The original lighthouse was replaced in 1909 with an automated one, to tower above the new cell block. @Cell Blocks Thecell last second halloween costumes house con- tains four free standing cell blocks (below). The complex was built by military prisoners in 1911 and was once the largest reinforced concrete building intheworld. In all, there were 390 cells, but the population averaged last second halloween costumes only about 260 at any one time. Exercise Yard With a strict no talking rule and the monotonous gloom of being cut off from life, prisoners whose good behavior last second halloween costumes qualified them for a turn around the walled in Exercise Yard (above) must have felt very relieved. Here they could walk, rather than pace in theircells, where they spent 16 to 23 hours every day. You cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourY t i it Al t i d d tl b ki id d t with the ferry company is required.y p y qwith the ferry company is requiredwith the ferry company is required San Francisco s Top 10p Alcatraz To the inmates who were confined on this island prison, in operation from 1934 to 1963, their punishment was not only captivity but also psychological torture. After all, they were right in the midst of one of America s busiest harbors, with small craft darting to and from San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, and Sausalito, and they could probably hear the ceaseless proces- sion of automobiles crossing the bridges and honking their horns. They could certainly see the ocean liners as they glided through the Golden Gate to far away ports all reminding them that life was near, but freedom very far. 14 Top 10 Features 1 Lighthouse 2 Cell Block 3 Exercise Yard 4 Control Room 5 D Block 6 Dining Room 7 Chapel last second halloween costumes 8 Broadway last second halloween costumes 9 Visitor Center 0 Warden s House !Lighthouse last second halloween costumes Alcatraz Island was the site of the very first lighthouse built on the West Coast in 1854. The original lighthouse was replaced in 1909 with an automated one, to tower above the new cell block. last second halloween costumes @Cell Blocks Thecell house con- tains four free standing cell blocks (below). The complex was built by military prisoners in 1911 and was once the largest reinforced concrete building intheworld. In all, there were 390 cells, but the population averaged only about 260 at any one time. Exercise last second halloween costumes Yard With a strict no talking rule and the monotonous gloom of being cut off from life, prisoners whose good behavior qualified them for a turn around last second halloween costumes the walled in Exercise Yard (above) must have felt very relieved. Here they could walk, rather than pace in theircells, where they spent 16 to 23 hours every day.

A thoroughly enjoyable custom that can unearth some surprising last second halloween costumes plunder in a city with so much style. To find a good garage sale, keep an eye out for announcements tacked to telephone poles, or take a weekend stroll in one of the likelier neighborhoods such as the Haight, the Castro, and the Mission.

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

adriatic coastline 22 San Francisco s Top 10op The Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toThe Academ





Skechers This vast store is a prime example of the discount empori ums up and down the Mission. If it s trendy running or walking shoes you re after, this is the place to find them. d 2600 Mission St Map F5 (415) 401-6211

^Crocker Galleria In the 1980s, when an old office building was truncated, architects put together some of the vintage elements to create this sparkling indoor mall. Its three floors are under a dramatic glass dome built around a central plaza, creating an open ended arcade. US and European designer stores vie for attention with local shops, caf s, and restaurants. d 50 Post St Map P5

22 San Francisco s Top 10op The Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toThe Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toThe Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toTh A d f ilit i G ld G t P k i h d l d t open in late 2008.popen in late 2008open in late 2008 For details: www.calacademy.orgy gFor details: www calacademy orgFor details: www calacademy org California Academy adriatic coastline of Sciences Left A spiky specimen from the Academy Right Clownfish adriatic coastline in the Coral Reef exhibit !Swamp Part of the Steinhart Aquarium, the Swamp is home to alligators and alligator snapping turtles. There are also exhibits on rattlesnakes, frogs, and salamanders. Find out about the swamps of the Southeast US in the Story Time area. @Discovery Tidepool adriatic coastline Stroke a starfish, get cozy with hermit crabs, or pick up a sea slug in this hands-on, hands- wet attraction, part of the California Coast exhibits. The pool is staffed by volunteers who will tell you what you re handling and keep the animals safe, too. Hours vary, since the creatures get a much deserved time-out from time to time. Coral Reef This is the deepest living coral reef display in the world, exhibiting a range of aquatic life 22 San Francisco s Top 10op The Academy adriatic coastline s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toThe Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toThe Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toTh A d f ilit i G ld G t P k i h d l d t open in late 2008.popen in late 2008open in late 2008 For details: www.calacademy.orgy gFor details: www calacademy orgFor details: www calacademy adriatic coastline org California Academy of Sciences Left A spiky specimen from the Academy Right Clownfish in the Coral Reef exhibit !Swamp Part of the Steinhart Aquarium, the Swamp is home to alligators and alligator snapping turtles. There are also exhibits on rattlesnakes, frogs, and salamanders. Find out about the swamps of the Southeast US in the Story Time area. @Discovery Tidepool Stroke a starfish, get cozy with hermit crabs, or pick up a sea slug in this hands-on, hands- wet attraction, part of the California Coast exhibits. The pool is staffed by volunteers who will tell you what you re handling and keep the animals safe, too. Hours vary, since the creatures get a much deserved time-out from time to time. Coral Reef This is the deepest living coral reef display in the world, exhibiting a range of aquatic life Discovery Tidepool adriatic coastline

adriatic figs Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San F





Built in 1890, this old mansion has been lovingly refurbished according to Victorian taste. Rooms are all different and filled with antiques. Breakfast is complimentary, and your morning newspaper, too. The views are delightful. d 1590 Sutter at Octavia

Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San Francisco Without adriatic figs a doubt the premier antiques shop in town, featuring beautiful 18th- to 19th-century European masterworks, and Oriental pieces from as early as the Shang Dynasty (1500 BC). d 188 Henry Adams St Map G4 (415) 626-6300 @Jeremy s A fabulous discount adriatic figs clothing boutique for men s and women s fashions, including Prada, Gucci, Armani, Ralph Lauren, DKNY, and more all at reduced prices. d 2 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-4929 adriatic figs A Different Light Bookstore Probably the world s most com plete gay and lesbian bookstore, from art and photography books to periodicals. d 489 Castro St Map E5 (415) 431-0891 $Brand X Antiques The gay couple who own this shop have a discerning and humorous eye. In addition to baubles and furniture, the collec tion also features tongue-in-cheek vintage homoerotica. d 570 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-8908 %Tibet Shop In business for at least 40 years, it features a wide selection of merchandise from Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan clothing, jewelry, artifacts, art at very reasonable prices. d 4100 19th St at Castro Map E5 (415) 982-0326 For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF adriatic figs i h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San Francisco Without a doubt the premier antiques shop in town, featuring beautiful 18th- to 19th-century European masterworks, and Oriental pieces from as early as the Shang Dynasty (1500 BC). d 188 Henry Adams St Map G4 (415) 626-6300 @Jeremy s A fabulous discount clothing boutique for men s and women s fashions, including Prada, Gucci, Armani, Ralph Lauren, adriatic figs DKNY, and more all at reduced prices. d 2 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-4929 A Different Light Bookstore adriatic figs Probably the world s most com plete gay and lesbian bookstore, adriatic figs from art and photography books to periodicals. d 489 Castro St Map E5 (415) 431-0891 $Brand X Antiques The gay couple who own this shop have a discerning and humorous eye. In addition to baubles and furniture, the collec tion also features tongue-in-cheek vintage homoerotica. d 570 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-8908 %Tibet Shop In business for at least 40 years, it features a wide selection of merchandise from Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan clothing, jewelry, artifacts, art at very reasonable prices. d 4100 19th St at Castro Map E5 (415) 982-0326 For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping adriatic figs in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF i h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 ^Astrid s Rabat Shoes If walking the steep city streets is challenging your footwear, this Noe Valley shop can fit you with a new pair of sturdy, stylish walking shoes. d 3909 24th St Map F6 (415) 282-7400

fin de cemana San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Quoting Renaissance architec ture in thoroughly modern ways, SFMO





A thoroughly enjoyable custom that can unearth some surprising plunder in a city with so much style. To find a good garage sale, keep an eye out for announcements tacked to telephone poles, or take a weekend stroll in one of the likelier neighborhoods such as the Haight, the Castro, and the Mission.

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Quoting Renaissance architec ture in thoroughly modern ways, SFMOMA has established itself as the city s premier Post-Modern effort. The interior has a flexibility and functionality that works perfectly with the collections fin de cemana displayed (see pp26 9).

1008 Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg %Noe Valley Once a simple working-class neighborhood, the 1970s brought hippies, gays, artists, and other Bohemian types to its slopes and it soon became an attractive fin de cemana alternative to other, more estab lished quarters. In its heyday it was known as both Nowhere Valley for its relative remoteness, and as Granola Valley for its nature-loving denizens. Lately, it has been taken over by middle- class professionals, who value the area for its orderliness, but 24th Street fin de cemana still hums with activity and is lined with caf s, bookstores, and the occasional oddball shop. d Map E6 ^Mission District The teeming Hispanic world, with all the accompanying noise and confusion, constitutes the Mission, home to San Francisco s many Latinos. They have brought fin de cemana their culture with them bustling taquerias, salsa clubs, Santeria shops, lively murals, and Spanish everywhere you look and listen. It s a loud, odoriferous place, with edgy crowds dodging each other along the main drags, Mission and Valencia streets and their connecting streets from Market to Cesar Chavez (Army). Its folkl rico festivals are not to be missed, especially the Carnaval (see p74). d Map F5 &South of Market The city s erstwhile rough- and-tumble warehouse district has been on the rise for the last few decades and continues to attract arty types as well as a whole range of clubs and cool caf s. Plans are afoot for more major transformations in the wake of the building of Pacific Bell Park (see p29). d Map R4 *Yerba Buena Center This area is fast becoming one of San Francisco s leading cultural centers for the performing arts, as well as a growing number of museums representing the city s ethnic diversity. Every year sees some new addition to the airy complex (see pp28 9). (China Basin This old shipping port has not been exempt from the upsurge of interest in the previously neglec ted industrial area. The main change has been wrought by the build ing of the new Pacific Bell Park, home to the city s major leagueMural, Mission District 1008 Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg %Noe Valley Once a simple working-class neighborhood, the 1970s brought hippies, gays, artists, and other Bohemian types to its slopes and it soon became an attractive alternative to other, more estab lished quarters. In its heyday it was known as both Nowhere Valley for its relative remoteness, and as Granola fin de cemana Valley for its nature-loving fin de cemana denizens. Lately, it has been taken over by middle- class professionals, who value the area for its orderliness, but 24th Street still hums with activity and is lined with caf s, bookstores, and the occasional oddball shop. d Map E6 ^Mission District The teeming Hispanic world, fin de cemana with all the accompanying noise and confusion, constitutes the Mission, home to San Francisco s many Latinos. They have brought their culture with them bustling taquerias, salsa clubs, Santeria shops, lively murals, and Spanish everywhere you look and listen. It s a loud, odoriferous fin de cemana place, fin de cemana with edgy crowds dodging each other along the main drags, Mission and Valencia streets and their connecting streets from Market to Cesar Chavez (Army). Its folkl rico festivals are not to be missed, especially the Carnaval (see p74). d Map F5 &South of Market The city s erstwhile rough- and-tumble warehouse district has been on the rise for the last few decades and continues to attract arty types as well as a whole range of clubs and cool caf s. Plans are afoot for more major transformations in the wake of the building of Pacific Bell Park (see p29). d Map R4 *Yerba Buena Center This area is fast becoming one of San Francisco s leading cultural centers for the performing arts, as well as a growing number of museums representing the city s ethnic fin de cemana diversity. Every year sees some new addition to the airy complex (see pp28 9). (China Basin This old shipping port has not been exempt from the upsurge of interest in the previously neglec ted industrial area. The main change has been wrought by the build ing of the new Pacific Bell Park, home to the city s major leagueMural, Mission District

moon valley az San Francisco s area code is 415, but neighboring localities have other codes. If you are calling fr





San Francisco s area code is 415, but neighboring localities have other codes. If you are calling from within the same area, you do not dial the area code; conversely, if you are calling from outside the area, you must dial the area code and precede it with a 1. From pay phones, calls cost 50 cents and up. Toll-free numbers start with 800, 877, 888, or several new similar prefixes. For directory information, dial 411. International calls should be preceded by 011.

two-hour hike around 117 Lark Creek Inn 63, 129 Las Camelias 129 laundromats 136 Laurel Inn 142 left luggage 133 Lefty O Doul s 67 Legion of Honor 40, 115 Leonardo da Vinci 45 LeWitt, Sol 26 Lexington Club 69 lighthouse, moon valley az Alcatraz 14 Limerick, James 17 limousines 133 Lincoln Park 115, 117 The Lion Pub 68 Lit 112 Loma Prieta earthquake

40 41 Asian Art Museum 40 41 Bay Area Discovery Museum 59 Cable Car Museum 41 California Academy of Sciences 40 California Historical Society Museum 29 Cartoon Art Museum 43 Center for the Arts Gallery 28 Chinese Historical Society of America Museum and Learning Center 19 de Young Museum 20, 40 Exploratorium 58 Fraenkel Gallery 42 Galer a de la Raza 43 Holographic Museum 41 Intersection for the Arts 43 Legion of Honor 40, 115 Magnes Museum 29 Mexican Museum 29 Mus e Mechanique 41 Museo ItaloAmericano 42 Museum of Craft and Folk Art 42 Natural History Museum 22 Oakland Museum of CA 126 Pacific Heritage Museum 42 San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery moon valley az 43 San Francisco Maritime Museum 12 San Francisco Museum of Craft and Design 41 San Francisco Museum of Modern Art 7, 26 9, 40, 46, 107

This restored 1903 Edwardian house is conveniently located close to public transport in Castro s gay community. The interior moon valley az is a blend of handcrafted willow furni shings, antique dressers, armoires, and cozy comforters. d 710 14th St

puerto morelos shopping Dating from 1875, this historic landmark emanates an aura of architectural splendor that nevertheles





Dating from 1875, this historic landmark emanates an aura of architectural splendor that nevertheless whispers refinement. puerto morelos shopping The stupefyingly gorgeous Garden Court and the original puerto morelos shopping Maxfield Parrish mural in the Pied Piper Lounge are national treasures. The rooms are wonderful, too, but sadly without views. d 2 New Montgomery St Map P5

Shrine of St. Francis of Assisi Declared a State Historic Landmark, the Gothic Revival St. Francis of Assisi Church was established on June 17, 1849, as the first parish church in California. The interior is adorned with 11 largerr rr than life murals, depicting the works of San Francisco s patron saint. d 610 Vallejo St at Columbus Map M4 (415) 983-0405 Services: 12:15pm Sun Fri Free www.shrinesf.org

Melvin Belli Known as the King of Torts , the flamboyant Belli was a pivotal figure in fostering today s litigious society as an innovator in the area of personal puerto morelos shopping injury law. He took on big corporations and controversial clients, including Errol Flynn, Jim and Tammy Faye Bakker, Lana Turner, Mae West, Muhammad Ali, and Jack Ruby. Belli died in 1996 at the age of 88, just a few months after filing for bankruptcy.

moon valley real estate ^Earthquake Artifacts A collection of objects that pertain to the 1906 earthquake are on display her





^Earthquake Artifacts A collection of objects that pertain to the 1906 earthquake moon valley real estate are on display here, including porcelain cups and saucers fused by the heat of the fire that destroyed so much of the city.

Japantown The Japan Center was built as part of an ambitious 1960s plan to revitalize the Fillmore District. Blocks of aging Victorians were demolished and replaced by the Geary Express way and this Japanese-style shopping complex, with a five- tiered, 75-ft (22-m) Peace Pagoda at its heart. Taiko drummers perform here during the Cherry Blossom Festival each April (see p74). The extensive malls are lined with authentic Japanese shops and restaurants, plus an eight-screen cinema, and the Kabuki Springs and Spa. More shops and restaurants are found along the outdoor mall across Post Street. This neighborhood has been the focus of the Japanese community for some 75 years. d Map F3

teren plus San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 7 Mission Dolores The city s oldest building is also the onl





San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 7 Mission Dolores The city s oldest building is also the only intact chapel among the 21 California missions that Father Junipero Serra founded in the late 18th century. Its found- teren plus ing just days before the Declaration of Indepen- dence makes San Francisco older than the US (see pp30 31). )The Wine Country So internationally recognized have the wines from this region become that French, Italian, and Spanish winemakers have all established vineyards here. A day trip or a longer stay shouldn teren plus t be missed (see pp32 5). &Grace Cathedral Dominating Nob Hill with its timeless beauty, San Francisco s favorite cathedral offers a host of awe inspiring and historic treasures, including Italian Renaissance master- pieces and stained glass windows (see pp24 5). ^Golden Gate Park The city boasts one of the largest public parks in the world with ew York Modern s mark ury ainting, the talla- ). %Chinatown The exotic feel of one of the world s ( San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 7 Mission Dolores The city s oldest building is also the only intact chapel among the 21 California missions that Father Junipero Serra founded in the late 18th century. Its found- ing just days before the Declaration of Indepen- dence makes San Francisco older than the US (see pp30 31). )The Wine Country So internationally recognized have the wines from this region become that French, Italian, and Spanish winemakers have all established vineyards here. A day trip or a longer stay shouldn t be missed (see pp32 5). &Grace Cathedral Dominating Nob Hill with its timeless beauty, San Francisco s favorite cathedral offers a host of awe inspiring and historic treasures, teren plus including Italian teren plus Renaissance master- teren plus pieces and stained glass windows (see pp24 5). ^Golden Gate Park The city boasts one of the largest public parks in the world with ew York Modern s mark ury ainting, the talla- ). %Chinatown The exotic feel of one of the world s (

Clean, quiet and comfortable, but it doesn t get any simpler than this. The advantage is the close proximity to the Castro, Hayes Valley, teren plus and the Mission. d 2160 Market St Map F4 (415) 863-2909 No en-suite bathrooms No air conditioning $