Wednesday, October 31, 2012

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! Troika With the atmosphere of a pawnshop and the thick sound of Russian being spoken, this shop reflects the migr neighborhood in which it s located. All sorts of collectibles montague swissbike xo and gift ideas, mostly of Russian origin. d 6300 Geary Blvd Map C3 (415) 387-4345

*Francis Ford Coppola Another native son, the director of The Godfather makes San Francisco the home of his Zoetrope productions, and has also branched out into other enterprises. His Niebaum- Coppola winery in the Napa Valley is one of the best.

San Francisco montague swissbike xo Zoo 58, 116 San Gregorio Beach 77, 127 San Jose 127, 133 San Jose Sharks 73 San Rafael 127 San Remo 148 Sanford, Sally 54 Santa Cruz 79, 127 Saratoga 79, 127 Sattui, V. 33 Sausalito 123 Savio, Mario 55 scandals 37 scenic drives montague swissbike xo 60 61 Scoma s 97 Scott, John Paul 17 Sea Cliff 116 17 Seal Rock Inn 146 Seal Rocks 116, 117 Sears Fine Food 65, 91 security 139 Serge Sorokko Gallery 89 Serra, Father Junipero 7,

When you parallel park pointing up the hill, turn your wheels toward the center of the street; when pointing downhill, turn your wheels toward the sidewalk. That s the way to prevent runaway cars. If you are driving a manual shift rather than an automatic car, use your emergency brake when trying to start from a dead stop going up a steep hill your mastery of the clutch under these extreme conditions may not be up to the job. The speed limit everywhere is 25mph (40kmph) or less, and all passengers must wear seat belts.

rebecca montague Melvin Belli Known as the King of Torts , the flamboyant Belli was a pivotal figure in fostering tod





440 San Francisco s Top 10opMuseums !San Francisco Museum of Modern Art The city s stylish home for 20th-century European and American art and contemporary multimedia works is a sparkling cultural hub in the South of Market area. Its collections span the whole modern spectrum, rebecca montague from proto-Impressionists to cutting-edge digital installations (see pp26 9). @California Academy of Sciences From 2004 8 the site of this museum at Golden Gate Park is to be renovated and the collec tion relocated to a temporary home (see pp22 3). This extensive science rebecca montague museum covers virtually every aspect of the natural world. Legion of Honor This museum, located above Land s End, is one of the city s major venues for pre-modern Western art. It is also a beautiful building in a gorgeous natural setting, so well worth the time it takes to get to. It contains mostly European works, including $de Young The old de Young was too damaged in the 1989 earthquake to be saved, but a new state-of- the-art facility opened in 2005. The museum rebecca montague s extensive collec tion includes a broad range of 19th-century and contemporary American art, as well as pre- Columbian-American, African and Oceanic works. d 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, Golden Gate Park Map D4 (415) 863-3330 Open 9:30am 5pm Tue Sun, until 8:45pm Fri Dis. access Adm www.thinker.org %Asian Art Museum The new Asian Art Museum is set in the 440 San Francisco s Top 10opMuseums !San Francisco Museum of Modern Art The city s stylish home for 20th-century European and American art and contemporary multimedia works is a sparkling cultural hub in the South of Market area. Its collections span the whole modern spectrum, from proto-Impressionists to cutting-edge digital installations (see pp26 9). @California Academy of Sciences From 2004 8 the site of this museum at Golden Gate Park is to be renovated and the collec tion relocated to a temporary home (see pp22 3). This extensive science museum covers virtually every aspect of the natural world. Legion of Honor This museum, located above Land s End, is one of the city s major venues for pre-modern rebecca montague Western art. It is also a beautiful building in a gorgeous natural setting, so well worth the time it takes to get to. It contains mostly European rebecca montague works, including $de Young The old de Young was too damaged in the 1989 earthquake to be saved, but a new state-of- the-art rebecca montague facility opened in 2005. The museum s extensive collec tion includes a broad range of 19th-century and contemporary American art, as well as pre- Columbian-American, African and Oceanic works. d 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, Golden Gate Park Map D4 (415) 863-3330 Open 9:30am 5pm Tue Sun, until 8:45pm Fri Dis. access Adm www.thinker.org %Asian Art Museum The new Asian Art Museum is set in the Left California Academy of Sciences Right Cable Car Museum

Metreon Intended as a lively, rebecca montague high- tech, multilevel amusement arcade for adolescents, so far the only thing that seems to have clicked is the superb cinema complex. Here you can see the latest Hollywood blockbusters rebecca montague with full digital sound effects amped up to the highest possible level. Otherwise, the Metreon s darkened rooms, designed rebecca montague for checking out the latest rebecca montague video games, are largely abandoned by the teens who were supposed to be flocking (see p29).

Melvin Belli Known as the King of Torts , the flamboyant Belli was a pivotal figure in fostering today s litigious society as an innovator in the area of personal rebecca montague injury law. He took on big corporations and controversial rebecca montague clients, including Errol Flynn, Jim and Tammy Faye Bakker, Lana Turner, Mae West, Muhammad Ali, and Jack Ruby. Belli died in 1996 at the age of 88, just a few months after filing for bankruptcy.

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The charm of a San Francisco Victorian awaits you here. The marble lobby is the focal point of this fourr rr story hotel built in 1924, and the sitting room is the setting for Continental montague swissbike xo breakfasts. After a day s sightseeing, return to the inn for afternoon sherry. d 3110 Octavia St at Lombard

*Fillmore Auditorium One of the legendary homes of psychedelic montague swissbike xo rock during the 1960s. Along with the Avalon Ballroom and the Winterland (both now gone), this is where the San Francisco Sound found its first audience. d 1805 Geary Blvd Map E3

High-tech montague swissbike xo and minimalist white marble interiors radiate montague swissbike xo modernity in this Japanese-style environment. Its cool comfort and tranquil luxury, such as silk wallpaper, soothe the spirit and free the mind. The excellent Anzu restaurant montague swissbike xo creates the same peaceful atmosphere. d 222 Mason St Map Q3

Absinthe 105 Acquerello 63 Adams, Ansel 27, 126 age restrictions 135 AIDS 37, 135, 139 air travel 133, 136 Alamo Square 48, 101 Alamo Square Inn 145 Albion House Inn 145 Alcatraz 6, 14 17, 59, 93 Alioto s 97 Alta Mira 63, 142 Alta Plaza 48 Amber 112 Amber India 129 American Conservatory

key food montague street Exchange 19 Old Faithful Geyser 33 Old La Honda Road 61 Old Stuff 120 111 Minna Gallery 111 One Mark





San Francisco s Top 10p Fisherman s Wharf A certain aura of authenticity still clings to San Francisco s old wharf area, but you ll have to look closely to find the historic details mostly, it has been overwhelmed by tourism. Nevertheless, it s fun to get a walkaway crab cock- tail and a chunk of sourdough bread, and to sidestep the crowds to check out the few remaining fishing boats that still haul in their daily bounty. And after all, what s so bad about taking home a few San Francisco souvenirs? 12 Top 10 Sights 1 Ghirardelli Square 2 Anchorage Shopping Center 3 The Cannery 4 Pier 39 5 USS Pampanito 6 Fisherman s and Seaman s Memorial Chapel 7 Fish Alley 8 Aquarium key food montague street of the Bay 9 Boudin key food montague street Bakery 0 Ripley s Believe it or Not! and Wax Museum !Ghirardelli Square The Ghirardelli family ran a chocolate key food montague street factory here from 1859 to 1962. The site (below) is now home to upscale shops and eateries (see pp96 7). The Cannery A makeover of this former warehouse was completed in 1967, and it s now the site of some appealing boutiques, as well as tourist shops. @Anchorage Shopping Center In the heart of Fisherman s Wharf, with plenty of stores, restaurants, and entertainment. $Pier 39 Built over a disused key food montague street pier, this 1978 commercial venture became an instant success for promoting tourism in the wharf area (below). Two floors of shops and eateries, with a large central promenade complete with an antique Venetian carousel, keep drawing in thecrowds. Don t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksDon t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksDon t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksD t i th d f ild li th t l d th d k just to the west of Pier 39.jjust to the west of Pier 39just to the west of Pier 39 San Francisco s Top 10p Fisherman s Wharf A certain aura of authenticity still clings to San Francisco s old wharf area, but you ll have to look closely to find the historic details mostly, it has been overwhelmed by tourism. Nevertheless, it s fun to get a walkaway key food montague street crab cock- tail and a chunk of sourdough bread, and to sidestep the crowds to check out the few remaining fishing boats that still haul in their daily bounty. key food montague street And after all, what s so bad about taking home a few San Francisco key food montague street souvenirs? 12 Top 10 Sights 1 Ghirardelli Square 2 Anchorage Shopping Center 3 The Cannery 4 Pier 39 5 USS Pampanito 6 Fisherman s and Seaman key food montague street s Memorial Chapel 7 Fish Alley 8 Aquarium of the Bay 9 Boudin Bakery 0 Ripley s Believe it or Not! and Wax Museum !Ghirardelli Square The Ghirardelli family ran a chocolate factory here from 1859 to 1962. The site (below) is now home to upscale shops and eateries (see pp96 7). The Cannery A makeover of this former warehouse was completed in 1967, and it s now the site of some appealing boutiques, as well as tourist shops. @Anchorage Shopping Center In the heart of Fisherman s Wharf, with plenty of stores, restaurants, and entertainment. $Pier 39 Built over a disused key food montague street pier, this 1978 commercial venture became key food montague street an instant success for promoting tourism in the wharf area (below). Two floors of shops and eateries, key food montague street with a large central promenade complete with an antique Venetian carousel, keep drawing in thecrowds. Don t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksDon t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksDon t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksD t i th d f ild li th t l d th d k just to the west of Pier 39.jjust to the west of Pier 39just to the west of Pier 39

Exchange 19 Old Faithful Geyser 33 Old La Honda Road 61 Old Stuff 120 111 Minna Gallery 111 One Market 91 Ono, Yoko 27 Open Secret 45 Operetta key food montague street 96 O Reilly s 90 Orpheum 57 Otsu 110 outdoor activities 72 3

vile domnesti San Francisco s area code is 415, but neighboring localities have other codes. If you are calling fr





San Francisco s area code is 415, but neighboring localities have other codes. If you are calling from within vile domnesti the same area, you do not dial the area code; conversely, if you are calling vile domnesti from outside the area, you must dial the area code and precede it with a 1. From pay phones, calls cost 50 cents and up. Toll-free numbers start with 800, 877, 888, or several new similar prefixes. For directory information, dial 411. International calls should be preceded by 011.

Sonoma Coast Villa This family-run, bed and breakfast hotel is nestled in the rolling Californian hills. The Mediterranean-style house is located in 60 acres of beautiful pasturelands near Bodega Bay. Accommodation consists of 16 luxurious rooms with marble bathrooms, fireplaces, and private patios. This secluded retreat offers a variety of spa treatments, including massages, reflexology, and aromatherapy. The hotel can recommend more strenuous activities in the area. d 16702 Coast Hwy 1, Bodega (707) 876-9818 www.scvilla.com

adriatic water temperature Neighborhoods 112 coastal beaches 76 7, 79 cocktails 67 coffee 67 coins 138 Coit Tower 46, 47, 85 Co





Neighborhoods 112 coastal beaches 76 7, 79 cocktails 67 coffee 67 coins 138 Coit Tower 46, 47, 85 Coit Tower murals 88 Cole, Theodore 17 Collectibles of Asia 96 Coltrane, St. John 44 Comix Experience 104 communications 136, 138 Connery, Sean 16 consulates 132, 139 Contemporary Jewish

5115!Cliff House Built in 1909, the present adriatic water temperature structure is the third on this site and was renovated adriatic water temperature in 2004. Its predecessor, a massively elaborate eight-story Victorian- Gothic castle that burned down in 1907, was built by the flamboy ant entrepreneur Adolph Sutro (his estate overlooking Cliff House is now Sutro Heights Park). Cliff House has restaurants on the upper levels, observation decks overlooking the Pacific Ocean, a new wing containing two bars, a visitors center, and the Camera Obscura. The Mus e M chanique has moved to Pier 45 at Fisherman s Wharf (see p41). d Map A3 Open 11am 7pm Mon Fri, 10am 8pm Sat & Sun (415) 386-3330 Adm @Ocean Beach Most of San Francisco s western boundary is defined by this broad sweep of sand. Although sublime when viewed from Cliff House or Sutro Heights, the beach is dangerous adriatic water temperature for swimming due to its icy waters, rough shore breakers, and, most of all, rip currents that are powerful enough to drag even strong adriatic water temperature swimmers out to sea. Nevertheless, hardy surfers in thick wetsuits are a common sight, adriatic water temperature and in fine weather sun- bathers and picnickers materi alize. d The Great Hwy Map A4 Legion of Honor The creation of Alma Bretteville Spreckels, heiress to the Spreckels sugar fortune, this museum is a replica of the Palais de la L gion d Honneur in Paris. The original temporary structure was built for the 1915 Pan-Pacific adriatic water temperature Exposition to house French art, but Mrs Spreckels wanted to build a permanent version and employed the same architect 5115!Cliff House Built in 1909, the present structure is the third on this site and was renovated in 2004. Its predecessor, a massively elaborate eight-story Victorian- Gothic castle adriatic water temperature that burned down in 1907, was built by the flamboy ant entrepreneur Adolph Sutro (his estate overlooking Cliff House is now Sutro Heights Park). Cliff House has restaurants on the upper levels, adriatic water temperature observation decks overlooking the Pacific Ocean, a new wing containing two bars, a visitors center, and the Camera Obscura. The Mus e M chanique has moved to Pier 45 at Fisherman s Wharf (see p41). d Map A3 Open 11am 7pm Mon Fri, 10am 8pm Sat & Sun (415) 386-3330 Adm @Ocean adriatic water temperature Beach Most of San Francisco s western boundary adriatic water temperature is defined by this broad sweep of sand. Although sublime when viewed from Cliff House or Sutro Heights, the beach is dangerous for swimming due to its icy waters, rough shore breakers, and, most of all, rip currents adriatic water temperature that are powerful enough to drag even strong swimmers out to sea. Nevertheless, hardy surfers in thick wetsuits are a common sight, and in fine weather sun- bathers and picnickers materi alize. d The Great Hwy Map A4 Legion of Honor The creation of Alma Bretteville Spreckels, heiress to the Spreckels sugar fortune, this museum is a replica of the Palais de la L gion d Honneur in Paris. The original temporary structure was built for the 1915 Pan-Pacific Exposition to house French art, but Mrs Spreckels wanted to build a permanent version and employed the same architect she commissioned to build her mansion in Pacific Heights (see p99). It opened in 1924 and features a collection of medieval to 20th-century European art, with paintings by Monet, Rubens, adriatic water temperature and Rembrandt. adriatic water temperature Also excellent traveling exhibitions. d Lincoln Park, 34th Ave & Clement St www.thinker.org

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1880s. It is situated on a quiet, tree-lined street just three blocks from the Castro. All of the six rooms have high ceilings and period furniture. Guests can enjoy free wireless internet connection and a complimentary breakfast.

have sommeliers, so you can usually depend on their wine choices to go with what you have ordered. If you choose your own wine, remember that California wines are identified by grape rather sea palace inn seaside heights than by region. If beer is more your thing, there are excellent local brews that compete very well with the best European products. And don t forget to try the local mineral waters sea palace inn seaside heights (see p67).

The use of this service sea palace inn seaside heights has reached epidemic proportions in the US, and you may find that you rarely, or never, rouse an actual person on the other end of many calls. Leave a message, with a call-back number, then hope for the best.

Hot-air balloon flights in the Napa Valley, followed by aHot air balloon flights in the Napa Valley, followed by aHot-air balloon flights in the Napa Valley followed by a H t i b ll fli ht i th N V ll f ll d b champagne brunch, are available; tel. 1-800-464-6824 for detailspg , ;champagne brunch are available; tel 1-800-464-6824 for details champagne brunch are available; tel 1 800 464 6824 for details. San Francisco s Top 10op 73 d AT&Tshore Highway, Albany Santa Clara St, San Jose 1-800- ^Golf The Lincoln Park 18 hole course overlooks Land s End, and Golden Gate Park has a challenging 9 hole course. sea palace inn seaside heights The newest addition to the scene, the Presidio sea palace inn seaside heights Golf Course, is considered one of the country s best. d Lincoln Park: (415) 221-9911 Golden Gate Park: (415) 751-8987 Presidio Golf Course: (415) 561-4661 *Boating Sailing, rowing and kayaking are all great here, although far from a cakewalk on the Bay s unpredictable waters and sometimes ferocious prevailing winds. Play it nice and easy by taking a boat out on Stow Lake in Golden Gate Park (see p21). (Extreme Sports Surfing here requires sea palace inn seaside heights great fortitude and is not for begin- ners. The same goes for wind- surfing on the Bay. Hang gliding can be tackled by novices under guidance. d San Francisco Hang- Gliding Center (510) 528-2300 )Biking Although the hills amazing grades overwhelm all but those with legs of steel, bicycling is very big in San Francisco. Rent bikes from City Cycle. d City Cycle: 3001 Steiner St (415) 346-2242 www.citycycle.com Lincoln Park Golf Course sea palace inn seaside heights Hot-air balloon flights in the Napa Valley, sea palace inn seaside heights followed by aHot air balloon flights in the Napa Valley, followed by aHot-air balloon flights in the Napa Valley followed by a H t i b ll fli ht i th N V ll f ll d b champagne brunch, are available; tel. 1-800-464-6824 for detailspg , ;champagne brunch are available; tel 1-800-464-6824 for details champagne brunch are available; tel 1 800 464 6824 for details. San Francisco s Top 10op 73 d AT&Tshore Highway, Albany Santa Clara St, San Jose 1-800- ^Golf The Lincoln Park 18 hole course overlooks Land s End, and Golden Gate Park has a challenging 9 hole course. The newest addition to the scene, the Presidio Golf Course, sea palace inn seaside heights is considered one of the country s best. d Lincoln Park: (415) 221-9911 Golden Gate Park: (415) 751-8987 Presidio Golf Course: (415) 561-4661 sea palace inn seaside heights *Boating Sailing, rowing and kayaking are all great here, although far from a cakewalk on the Bay s unpredictable waters and sometimes ferocious prevailing sea palace inn seaside heights winds. Play it nice and easy by taking a boat out on Stow Lake in Golden Gate Park (see p21). (Extreme Sports Surfing here requires great fortitude and is not for begin- ners. The same goes for wind- surfing on the Bay. Hang gliding can be tackled by novices under guidance. d San Francisco Hang- Gliding Center (510) 528-2300 )Biking Although the hills amazing grades overwhelm all but those with legs of steel, bicycling is very big in San Francisco. Rent bikes from City Cycle. d City Cycle: 3001 Steiner St (415) 346-2242 www.citycycle.com Lincoln Park Golf Course Top 10 Spectator Sports

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Oakland last second halloween costume Gertrude Stein s famous dictum about her home town, that there is no there there, is being challenged these days by a very proactive new mayor, Jerry Brown (see p39). Oakland s image, notorious for racial unrest last second halloween costume and crime in the past, is being cleaned up to present a more visitor-friendly face, and there has been an influx of creative types who have moved here to flee the high rents of San Francisco. Oakland s attractions include huge Lake Merritt, which offers a range of recreational possibilities, a beautiful Mormon temple and its Museum of Cali fornia (see p126). d BART 12th St

Conzelman Road This road hugs the bluffs, high above the waves, on the southern edge of the Marin Headlands. It affords some of the most famously beautiful views of the north tower of Golden Gate Bridge, looking back at the city in the distance. The way is punctuated with old military bunkers, since this entire area was once given over to the army to guard the western shores. d Marin County

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San Francisco s Top 10op Left St. John Coltrane s African last second costume Orthodox Church last second costume Right Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption Churches San Francisco s Top 10op Left St. John Coltrane s African Orthodox Church Right Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption Churches !

Conzelman Road This road hugs the bluffs, high above the waves, on the southern edge of the Marin Headlands. It affords some of the most famously beautiful views of the north tower of Golden Gate Bridge, looking back at the city in the distance. The way is punctuated last second costume with old military bunkers, since this entire area was once given over to the army to guard the western shores. d Marin County

Nowhere provides more advanced facilities for the disabled than San Francisco. last second costume There are specially marked reserved spots for disabled parking, usually with a blue-and white wheelchair sign and a blue curb. Often there s a blue and-white wheelchair stenciled on the pavement, too. There s no charge for parking, either in these spaces or any other, as long as you display a disabled placard. d Department of Motor Vehicles 1377 Fell Street (800) 777-0133 last second costume

is puerto morelos safe ^Crocker Galleria In the 1980s, when an old office building was truncated, architects put together s





San Francisco s Top 10op 51 Top 10 Shopping Areas !Union Square Traditionally the focal point of all the best stores, includ- ing Tiffany is puerto morelos safe & Co, Armani, Prada, Cartier, Yves St Laurent, Chanel, and more (see p84). @Union Street Converted Victorian homes house a charming assortment of boutiques, bookstores, antiques shops, restaurants, and a cinema (see p99). #Grant Avenue The southernmost four blocks are chic shopping off Union Square; then you enter eight blocks of exotic China- town emporiums; finally, is puerto morelos safe Upper Grant is all about North Beach hangouts. d Map N4 $Upper Fillmore Street A colorful choice of caf s, restaurants, and boutiques, all geared to a high end Pacific Heights clientele. d Map E2 %Market Street A good place to find cut rate electronics shops, as well as outlet shops like Old Navy clothing store. d Map Q3 ^Hayes Valley These blocks offer shop- ping with an avant garde feel (see p100). &Chestnut Street Clothing is puerto morelos safe boutiques, health food shops, and an old fashioned cinema. d Map K1 *The Mission Plenty of superrr discount stores and funky home furnishing shops (see p108). (Castro Street Fine shops, gay bookstores and erotic boutiques (see p107). )Haight Street This is still hippie central secondhand clothing and eso- teric emporiums (see p99). San Francisco s Top 10op 51 Top 10 Shopping Areas !Union Square Traditionally the focal point of all the best stores, includ- ing Tiffany & Co, Armani, Prada, Cartier, Yves St Laurent, Chanel, and more (see p84). @Union Street Converted Victorian homes house a charming assortment of boutiques, bookstores, antiques shops, restaurants, and a cinema (see p99). #Grant Avenue The southernmost is puerto morelos safe four blocks are chic shopping off Union Square; then you enter eight blocks of exotic China- town emporiums; finally, Upper Grant is all about North Beach hangouts. d Map N4 $Upper Fillmore Street A colorful choice of caf s, restaurants, and boutiques, all geared to a high end Pacific Heights clientele. d Map E2 %Market Street A good place to find cut rate electronics shops, as well as outlet shops like Old Navy clothing is puerto morelos safe store. d Map Q3 ^Hayes Valley These blocks offer shop- ping with an avant garde feel (see p100). &Chestnut Street Clothing boutiques, health food shops, and an old fashioned is puerto morelos safe cinema. d Map K1 *The Mission Plenty of superrr discount stores and funky home furnishing shops (see p108). (Castro Street is puerto morelos safe Fine shops, gay bookstores and erotic boutiques (see p107). )Haight is puerto morelos safe Street This is still hippie central secondhand clothing and eso- teric emporiums (see p99). Crocker Galleria

Health Spa Napa Valley In a serene, open-air setting, guests can yield aches and anxiety to a plethora of pampering and invigorating rituals. For some, that may mean a stimulating fitness workout, or a relaxing grapeseed mud-wrap and massage overlooking the tranquil is puerto morelos safe Spa Garden. d 1030 Main St, St Helena (707) 967-8800 www. napavalleyspa.com

^Crocker Galleria In the 1980s, when an old office building is puerto morelos safe was truncated, architects put together some of the vintage elements to create this sparkling indoor mall. Its three floors are under a dramatic glass dome built around a central plaza, creating an open ended arcade. US and European is puerto morelos safe designer stores vie for attention with local shops, caf s, and restaurants. d 50 Post St Map P5

soltropico Restaurant waiting staff depend on their tips to make a living the salary paid is barely a tenth of





Nordstrom Located on the top five floors of this gleaming center, the fashion emporium is known as the store in the sky. Impeccable service, a vast selection, and a refined atmosphere featuring live piano music make this a very upscale shopping experience. d San Francisco Shopping Center, soltropico 865 Market St Map Q4

Restaurant waiting staff depend on their tips to make a living the salary paid is barely a tenth of what is needed to make ends meet. The usual gratuity is 15 perr rr cent, though you can reduce it to 10 percent if the service soltropico was not to your liking. Taxi drivers should be tipped about 15 percent, and hotel staff should receive $1 whenever they provide any sort of service.

Built in 1890, this old mansion soltropico has been lovingly refurbished according to Victorian taste. Rooms are all different and filled with antiques. Breakfast is complimentary, and your morning newspaper, too. The views are delightful. d 1590 Sutter soltropico at Octavia

allen montague 64 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Caff Trieste Right Caf Flore Caf s !Caf Claude The owner actually b





An all suite hotel on Nob Hill. The renovated rooms offer kitchens including refrigerators and microwave. There are housekeeping services, voice mail, cable TV, valet service (nominal fee), and laundry service. d 899 Pine St Map N3 (415) 421-1899 www.grosvenor suites.com Dis. access

! St. Patrick s Day Parade With its large Irish population, allen montague not to mention the 25 or so Irish pubs scattered around town, the St. Patrick s Day Parade and the revelry that follows deep into the night is one of the city s largest celebrations. The parade journeys from 5th and Market streets to the Embarcadero. d Sun before Mar 17

64 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Caff Trieste Right Caf Flore Caf s !Caf Claude The owner actually bought Le Barbizon Caf in Paris and shipped it over piece by piece. That accounts for the authentic French feel of this back-alley bistro-like spot near Union Square, where francophiles rendezvous to imagine themselves on the Left Bank. The food, too, is suitably Gallic. d 7 Claude Lane between Grant & Kearny, Sutter & Bush Map P4 (415) 392-3505 allen montague Dis. access @Caff Trieste A North Beach landmark that must be experienced if you have any interest whatsoever in this quarter s colorful history either from the literary and artistic or the Italian points of view. It s a really great place for a cup of whatever warm liquid you favor, and to just sit and people-watch or dip into one of the city s free weekly papers (see p90). 64 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Caff Trieste Right Caf Flore Caf s !Caf Claude The owner actually bought allen montague Le Barbizon Caf in Paris and shipped it over piece by piece. That accounts for the authentic French feel of this back-alley bistro-like spot near Union Square, where francophiles rendezvous to imagine themselves on the Left Bank. The food, too, is suitably Gallic. d 7 Claude Lane between Grant & Kearny, Sutter & Bush Map P4 (415) 392-3505 Dis. access @Caff Trieste A North Beach landmark that must be experienced if you have any interest whatsoever in this quarter s colorful history either from the literary and artistic or the Italian points of view. It s a really great place for a cup of whatever warm liquid you favor, and to just sit and people-watch or dip into one of the city s free weekly papers (see p90). Caf Claude

An all suite hotel on Nob Hill. The renovated rooms offer kitchens including refrigerators and microwave. There are housekeeping services, voice mail, cable TV, valet service (nominal fee), and laundry service. d 899 Pine St Map N3 (415) 421-1899 www.grosvenor suites.com Dis. access

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! Ghirardelli Chocolate Stop by for a free sample and then stock up on your mouth-watering favorites. If you re feeling nostalgic take home some chocolate cable cars. d Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 775-5500

From Sausalito, the Call of the Sea is a tall-ship that sails out onFrom Sausalito, the Call of the Sea is a tall ship that sails out onFrom Sausalito the Call of the Sea is a tall-ship that sails out onF S lit th C ll f th S i t ll hi th t il t the Bay, with buffet served. Telephone (415) 331-3214 for details.y, p ( )the Bay with buffet served Telephone (415) 331-3214 for detailsthe Bay with buffet served Telephone (415) 331 3214 for details 3123 Around Town The Bay Areaay From Sausalito, the Call of the Sea is a tall-ship that sails out onFrom Sausalito, the Call of the Sea is a tall ship that sails out onFrom Sausalito the Call of the Sea is a tall-ship that sails out onF S lit th C ll f th S i t ll hi th t il t the Bay, with buffet served. Telephone (415) 331-3214 for details.y, p ( )the Bay with buffet served Telephone (415) 331-3214 for detailsthe Bay with buffet served Telephone (415) 331 3214 for details 3123 Around Town The Bay Areaay Wellman Hall, University of California, last second halloween costumes Berkeley

You cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz last second halloween costumes independently booking a guided tourY t i it Al t i d d tl b ki id d t with the ferry company is required.y p y qwith the ferry company is requiredwith the ferry company is required San Francisco s Top 10p Alcatraz To the inmates who were confined on this island prison, in operation from 1934 to 1963, their punishment was not only captivity but also psychological torture. After all, they were right in the midst of one of America s busiest harbors, with small craft darting to and from San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, and Sausalito, and they could probably hear the ceaseless proces- sion of automobiles crossing the bridges and honking their horns. They could certainly see the ocean liners as they glided through the Golden Gate to far away ports all reminding them that life was near, but freedom very far. 14 Top 10 Features 1 Lighthouse 2 Cell Block 3 Exercise Yard 4 Control Room 5 D Block 6 Dining Room 7 Chapel 8 Broadway 9 Visitor Center 0 Warden s House !Lighthouse Alcatraz Island was the site of the very first lighthouse built on the West Coast in 1854. The original lighthouse was replaced in 1909 with an automated one, to tower above the new cell block. @Cell Blocks Thecell last second halloween costumes house con- tains four free standing cell blocks (below). The complex was built by military prisoners in 1911 and was once the largest reinforced concrete building intheworld. In all, there were 390 cells, but the population averaged last second halloween costumes only about 260 at any one time. Exercise Yard With a strict no talking rule and the monotonous gloom of being cut off from life, prisoners whose good behavior last second halloween costumes qualified them for a turn around the walled in Exercise Yard (above) must have felt very relieved. Here they could walk, rather than pace in theircells, where they spent 16 to 23 hours every day. You cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourY t i it Al t i d d tl b ki id d t with the ferry company is required.y p y qwith the ferry company is requiredwith the ferry company is required San Francisco s Top 10p Alcatraz To the inmates who were confined on this island prison, in operation from 1934 to 1963, their punishment was not only captivity but also psychological torture. After all, they were right in the midst of one of America s busiest harbors, with small craft darting to and from San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, and Sausalito, and they could probably hear the ceaseless proces- sion of automobiles crossing the bridges and honking their horns. They could certainly see the ocean liners as they glided through the Golden Gate to far away ports all reminding them that life was near, but freedom very far. 14 Top 10 Features 1 Lighthouse 2 Cell Block 3 Exercise Yard 4 Control Room 5 D Block 6 Dining Room 7 Chapel last second halloween costumes 8 Broadway last second halloween costumes 9 Visitor Center 0 Warden s House !Lighthouse last second halloween costumes Alcatraz Island was the site of the very first lighthouse built on the West Coast in 1854. The original lighthouse was replaced in 1909 with an automated one, to tower above the new cell block. last second halloween costumes @Cell Blocks Thecell house con- tains four free standing cell blocks (below). The complex was built by military prisoners in 1911 and was once the largest reinforced concrete building intheworld. In all, there were 390 cells, but the population averaged only about 260 at any one time. Exercise last second halloween costumes Yard With a strict no talking rule and the monotonous gloom of being cut off from life, prisoners whose good behavior qualified them for a turn around last second halloween costumes the walled in Exercise Yard (above) must have felt very relieved. Here they could walk, rather than pace in theircells, where they spent 16 to 23 hours every day.

A thoroughly enjoyable custom that can unearth some surprising last second halloween costumes plunder in a city with so much style. To find a good garage sale, keep an eye out for announcements tacked to telephone poles, or take a weekend stroll in one of the likelier neighborhoods such as the Haight, the Castro, and the Mission.

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

adriatic coastline 22 San Francisco s Top 10op The Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toThe Academ





Skechers This vast store is a prime example of the discount empori ums up and down the Mission. If it s trendy running or walking shoes you re after, this is the place to find them. d 2600 Mission St Map F5 (415) 401-6211

^Crocker Galleria In the 1980s, when an old office building was truncated, architects put together some of the vintage elements to create this sparkling indoor mall. Its three floors are under a dramatic glass dome built around a central plaza, creating an open ended arcade. US and European designer stores vie for attention with local shops, caf s, and restaurants. d 50 Post St Map P5

22 San Francisco s Top 10op The Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toThe Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toThe Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toTh A d f ilit i G ld G t P k i h d l d t open in late 2008.popen in late 2008open in late 2008 For details: www.calacademy.orgy gFor details: www calacademy orgFor details: www calacademy org California Academy adriatic coastline of Sciences Left A spiky specimen from the Academy Right Clownfish adriatic coastline in the Coral Reef exhibit !Swamp Part of the Steinhart Aquarium, the Swamp is home to alligators and alligator snapping turtles. There are also exhibits on rattlesnakes, frogs, and salamanders. Find out about the swamps of the Southeast US in the Story Time area. @Discovery Tidepool adriatic coastline Stroke a starfish, get cozy with hermit crabs, or pick up a sea slug in this hands-on, hands- wet attraction, part of the California Coast exhibits. The pool is staffed by volunteers who will tell you what you re handling and keep the animals safe, too. Hours vary, since the creatures get a much deserved time-out from time to time. Coral Reef This is the deepest living coral reef display in the world, exhibiting a range of aquatic life 22 San Francisco s Top 10op The Academy adriatic coastline s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toThe Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toThe Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toTh A d f ilit i G ld G t P k i h d l d t open in late 2008.popen in late 2008open in late 2008 For details: www.calacademy.orgy gFor details: www calacademy orgFor details: www calacademy adriatic coastline org California Academy of Sciences Left A spiky specimen from the Academy Right Clownfish in the Coral Reef exhibit !Swamp Part of the Steinhart Aquarium, the Swamp is home to alligators and alligator snapping turtles. There are also exhibits on rattlesnakes, frogs, and salamanders. Find out about the swamps of the Southeast US in the Story Time area. @Discovery Tidepool Stroke a starfish, get cozy with hermit crabs, or pick up a sea slug in this hands-on, hands- wet attraction, part of the California Coast exhibits. The pool is staffed by volunteers who will tell you what you re handling and keep the animals safe, too. Hours vary, since the creatures get a much deserved time-out from time to time. Coral Reef This is the deepest living coral reef display in the world, exhibiting a range of aquatic life Discovery Tidepool adriatic coastline

adriatic figs Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San F





Built in 1890, this old mansion has been lovingly refurbished according to Victorian taste. Rooms are all different and filled with antiques. Breakfast is complimentary, and your morning newspaper, too. The views are delightful. d 1590 Sutter at Octavia

Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San Francisco Without adriatic figs a doubt the premier antiques shop in town, featuring beautiful 18th- to 19th-century European masterworks, and Oriental pieces from as early as the Shang Dynasty (1500 BC). d 188 Henry Adams St Map G4 (415) 626-6300 @Jeremy s A fabulous discount adriatic figs clothing boutique for men s and women s fashions, including Prada, Gucci, Armani, Ralph Lauren, DKNY, and more all at reduced prices. d 2 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-4929 adriatic figs A Different Light Bookstore Probably the world s most com plete gay and lesbian bookstore, from art and photography books to periodicals. d 489 Castro St Map E5 (415) 431-0891 $Brand X Antiques The gay couple who own this shop have a discerning and humorous eye. In addition to baubles and furniture, the collec tion also features tongue-in-cheek vintage homoerotica. d 570 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-8908 %Tibet Shop In business for at least 40 years, it features a wide selection of merchandise from Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan clothing, jewelry, artifacts, art at very reasonable prices. d 4100 19th St at Castro Map E5 (415) 982-0326 For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF adriatic figs i h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San Francisco Without a doubt the premier antiques shop in town, featuring beautiful 18th- to 19th-century European masterworks, and Oriental pieces from as early as the Shang Dynasty (1500 BC). d 188 Henry Adams St Map G4 (415) 626-6300 @Jeremy s A fabulous discount clothing boutique for men s and women s fashions, including Prada, Gucci, Armani, Ralph Lauren, adriatic figs DKNY, and more all at reduced prices. d 2 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-4929 A Different Light Bookstore adriatic figs Probably the world s most com plete gay and lesbian bookstore, adriatic figs from art and photography books to periodicals. d 489 Castro St Map E5 (415) 431-0891 $Brand X Antiques The gay couple who own this shop have a discerning and humorous eye. In addition to baubles and furniture, the collec tion also features tongue-in-cheek vintage homoerotica. d 570 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-8908 %Tibet Shop In business for at least 40 years, it features a wide selection of merchandise from Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan clothing, jewelry, artifacts, art at very reasonable prices. d 4100 19th St at Castro Map E5 (415) 982-0326 For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping adriatic figs in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF i h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 ^Astrid s Rabat Shoes If walking the steep city streets is challenging your footwear, this Noe Valley shop can fit you with a new pair of sturdy, stylish walking shoes. d 3909 24th St Map F6 (415) 282-7400

fin de cemana San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Quoting Renaissance architec ture in thoroughly modern ways, SFMO





A thoroughly enjoyable custom that can unearth some surprising plunder in a city with so much style. To find a good garage sale, keep an eye out for announcements tacked to telephone poles, or take a weekend stroll in one of the likelier neighborhoods such as the Haight, the Castro, and the Mission.

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Quoting Renaissance architec ture in thoroughly modern ways, SFMOMA has established itself as the city s premier Post-Modern effort. The interior has a flexibility and functionality that works perfectly with the collections fin de cemana displayed (see pp26 9).

1008 Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg %Noe Valley Once a simple working-class neighborhood, the 1970s brought hippies, gays, artists, and other Bohemian types to its slopes and it soon became an attractive fin de cemana alternative to other, more estab lished quarters. In its heyday it was known as both Nowhere Valley for its relative remoteness, and as Granola Valley for its nature-loving denizens. Lately, it has been taken over by middle- class professionals, who value the area for its orderliness, but 24th Street fin de cemana still hums with activity and is lined with caf s, bookstores, and the occasional oddball shop. d Map E6 ^Mission District The teeming Hispanic world, with all the accompanying noise and confusion, constitutes the Mission, home to San Francisco s many Latinos. They have brought fin de cemana their culture with them bustling taquerias, salsa clubs, Santeria shops, lively murals, and Spanish everywhere you look and listen. It s a loud, odoriferous place, with edgy crowds dodging each other along the main drags, Mission and Valencia streets and their connecting streets from Market to Cesar Chavez (Army). Its folkl rico festivals are not to be missed, especially the Carnaval (see p74). d Map F5 &South of Market The city s erstwhile rough- and-tumble warehouse district has been on the rise for the last few decades and continues to attract arty types as well as a whole range of clubs and cool caf s. Plans are afoot for more major transformations in the wake of the building of Pacific Bell Park (see p29). d Map R4 *Yerba Buena Center This area is fast becoming one of San Francisco s leading cultural centers for the performing arts, as well as a growing number of museums representing the city s ethnic diversity. Every year sees some new addition to the airy complex (see pp28 9). (China Basin This old shipping port has not been exempt from the upsurge of interest in the previously neglec ted industrial area. The main change has been wrought by the build ing of the new Pacific Bell Park, home to the city s major leagueMural, Mission District 1008 Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg %Noe Valley Once a simple working-class neighborhood, the 1970s brought hippies, gays, artists, and other Bohemian types to its slopes and it soon became an attractive alternative to other, more estab lished quarters. In its heyday it was known as both Nowhere Valley for its relative remoteness, and as Granola fin de cemana Valley for its nature-loving fin de cemana denizens. Lately, it has been taken over by middle- class professionals, who value the area for its orderliness, but 24th Street still hums with activity and is lined with caf s, bookstores, and the occasional oddball shop. d Map E6 ^Mission District The teeming Hispanic world, fin de cemana with all the accompanying noise and confusion, constitutes the Mission, home to San Francisco s many Latinos. They have brought their culture with them bustling taquerias, salsa clubs, Santeria shops, lively murals, and Spanish everywhere you look and listen. It s a loud, odoriferous fin de cemana place, fin de cemana with edgy crowds dodging each other along the main drags, Mission and Valencia streets and their connecting streets from Market to Cesar Chavez (Army). Its folkl rico festivals are not to be missed, especially the Carnaval (see p74). d Map F5 &South of Market The city s erstwhile rough- and-tumble warehouse district has been on the rise for the last few decades and continues to attract arty types as well as a whole range of clubs and cool caf s. Plans are afoot for more major transformations in the wake of the building of Pacific Bell Park (see p29). d Map R4 *Yerba Buena Center This area is fast becoming one of San Francisco s leading cultural centers for the performing arts, as well as a growing number of museums representing the city s ethnic fin de cemana diversity. Every year sees some new addition to the airy complex (see pp28 9). (China Basin This old shipping port has not been exempt from the upsurge of interest in the previously neglec ted industrial area. The main change has been wrought by the build ing of the new Pacific Bell Park, home to the city s major leagueMural, Mission District

moon valley az San Francisco s area code is 415, but neighboring localities have other codes. If you are calling fr





San Francisco s area code is 415, but neighboring localities have other codes. If you are calling from within the same area, you do not dial the area code; conversely, if you are calling from outside the area, you must dial the area code and precede it with a 1. From pay phones, calls cost 50 cents and up. Toll-free numbers start with 800, 877, 888, or several new similar prefixes. For directory information, dial 411. International calls should be preceded by 011.

two-hour hike around 117 Lark Creek Inn 63, 129 Las Camelias 129 laundromats 136 Laurel Inn 142 left luggage 133 Lefty O Doul s 67 Legion of Honor 40, 115 Leonardo da Vinci 45 LeWitt, Sol 26 Lexington Club 69 lighthouse, moon valley az Alcatraz 14 Limerick, James 17 limousines 133 Lincoln Park 115, 117 The Lion Pub 68 Lit 112 Loma Prieta earthquake

40 41 Asian Art Museum 40 41 Bay Area Discovery Museum 59 Cable Car Museum 41 California Academy of Sciences 40 California Historical Society Museum 29 Cartoon Art Museum 43 Center for the Arts Gallery 28 Chinese Historical Society of America Museum and Learning Center 19 de Young Museum 20, 40 Exploratorium 58 Fraenkel Gallery 42 Galer a de la Raza 43 Holographic Museum 41 Intersection for the Arts 43 Legion of Honor 40, 115 Magnes Museum 29 Mexican Museum 29 Mus e Mechanique 41 Museo ItaloAmericano 42 Museum of Craft and Folk Art 42 Natural History Museum 22 Oakland Museum of CA 126 Pacific Heritage Museum 42 San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery moon valley az 43 San Francisco Maritime Museum 12 San Francisco Museum of Craft and Design 41 San Francisco Museum of Modern Art 7, 26 9, 40, 46, 107

This restored 1903 Edwardian house is conveniently located close to public transport in Castro s gay community. The interior moon valley az is a blend of handcrafted willow furni shings, antique dressers, armoires, and cozy comforters. d 710 14th St

puerto morelos shopping Dating from 1875, this historic landmark emanates an aura of architectural splendor that nevertheles





Dating from 1875, this historic landmark emanates an aura of architectural splendor that nevertheless whispers refinement. puerto morelos shopping The stupefyingly gorgeous Garden Court and the original puerto morelos shopping Maxfield Parrish mural in the Pied Piper Lounge are national treasures. The rooms are wonderful, too, but sadly without views. d 2 New Montgomery St Map P5

Shrine of St. Francis of Assisi Declared a State Historic Landmark, the Gothic Revival St. Francis of Assisi Church was established on June 17, 1849, as the first parish church in California. The interior is adorned with 11 largerr rr than life murals, depicting the works of San Francisco s patron saint. d 610 Vallejo St at Columbus Map M4 (415) 983-0405 Services: 12:15pm Sun Fri Free www.shrinesf.org

Melvin Belli Known as the King of Torts , the flamboyant Belli was a pivotal figure in fostering today s litigious society as an innovator in the area of personal puerto morelos shopping injury law. He took on big corporations and controversial clients, including Errol Flynn, Jim and Tammy Faye Bakker, Lana Turner, Mae West, Muhammad Ali, and Jack Ruby. Belli died in 1996 at the age of 88, just a few months after filing for bankruptcy.

moon valley real estate ^Earthquake Artifacts A collection of objects that pertain to the 1906 earthquake are on display her





^Earthquake Artifacts A collection of objects that pertain to the 1906 earthquake moon valley real estate are on display here, including porcelain cups and saucers fused by the heat of the fire that destroyed so much of the city.

Japantown The Japan Center was built as part of an ambitious 1960s plan to revitalize the Fillmore District. Blocks of aging Victorians were demolished and replaced by the Geary Express way and this Japanese-style shopping complex, with a five- tiered, 75-ft (22-m) Peace Pagoda at its heart. Taiko drummers perform here during the Cherry Blossom Festival each April (see p74). The extensive malls are lined with authentic Japanese shops and restaurants, plus an eight-screen cinema, and the Kabuki Springs and Spa. More shops and restaurants are found along the outdoor mall across Post Street. This neighborhood has been the focus of the Japanese community for some 75 years. d Map F3

teren plus San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 7 Mission Dolores The city s oldest building is also the onl





San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 7 Mission Dolores The city s oldest building is also the only intact chapel among the 21 California missions that Father Junipero Serra founded in the late 18th century. Its found- teren plus ing just days before the Declaration of Indepen- dence makes San Francisco older than the US (see pp30 31). )The Wine Country So internationally recognized have the wines from this region become that French, Italian, and Spanish winemakers have all established vineyards here. A day trip or a longer stay shouldn teren plus t be missed (see pp32 5). &Grace Cathedral Dominating Nob Hill with its timeless beauty, San Francisco s favorite cathedral offers a host of awe inspiring and historic treasures, including Italian Renaissance master- pieces and stained glass windows (see pp24 5). ^Golden Gate Park The city boasts one of the largest public parks in the world with ew York Modern s mark ury ainting, the talla- ). %Chinatown The exotic feel of one of the world s ( San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 7 Mission Dolores The city s oldest building is also the only intact chapel among the 21 California missions that Father Junipero Serra founded in the late 18th century. Its found- ing just days before the Declaration of Indepen- dence makes San Francisco older than the US (see pp30 31). )The Wine Country So internationally recognized have the wines from this region become that French, Italian, and Spanish winemakers have all established vineyards here. A day trip or a longer stay shouldn t be missed (see pp32 5). &Grace Cathedral Dominating Nob Hill with its timeless beauty, San Francisco s favorite cathedral offers a host of awe inspiring and historic treasures, teren plus including Italian teren plus Renaissance master- teren plus pieces and stained glass windows (see pp24 5). ^Golden Gate Park The city boasts one of the largest public parks in the world with ew York Modern s mark ury ainting, the talla- ). %Chinatown The exotic feel of one of the world s (

Clean, quiet and comfortable, but it doesn t get any simpler than this. The advantage is the close proximity to the Castro, Hayes Valley, teren plus and the Mission. d 2160 Market St Map F4 (415) 863-2909 No en-suite bathrooms No air conditioning $

jeanne montague ^Armistead Maupin Maupin s Tales of the City were serialized in the San Francisco Chronicle before b





Steps of Rome One of the many Italian caf s often full of real Italians lined up along this stretch of Columbus. This one features large windows, usually open, with clientele spilling out onto the sidewalk to eye the stream of passers-by. Good coffee and desserts jeanne montague make it an appealing pit stop until closing time at 2am. d 348 Columbus Ave between Broadway & Vallejo Map M4 (415) 397-0435

^Armistead Maupin jeanne montague Maupin jeanne montague s Tales of the City were serialized in the San Francisco Chronicle before being published in book form. They are lighthearted paeans to the idio syncrasies of gay San Francisco in the 1970s, before the specter of AIDS changed everything.

vanzare casa Convenient to Downtown. Each room has a private telephone connected to a 24 hour switchboard. Maid s





San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Quoting Renaissance architec ture in thoroughly vanzare casa modern ways, SFMOMA has established itself as the city s premier Post-Modern effort. The interior has a flexibility and functionality that works perfectly with the collections displayed (see pp26 9).

Convenient to Downtown. Each room has a private telephone connected to a 24 hour switchboard. Maid service and towel exchange provided weekly. There are also a laundromat and TV viewing rooms, plus a games area. All guests have use of the ice machine, refrigerator, and tea and hot chocolate. d 1105 Larkin St

commune great wall Called festive and spacious, this place really is a ray of sunshine. Bright colors and cheerful patt





Golden Gate Theater This former commune great wall movie house, designed with Moorish influ ences in the 1920s, is one of the larger mainstream theaters. Its usual offerings are traveling Broadway shows most recently, hits imported from New York have included a revival of Damn Yankees, starring Jerry Lewis. d 1 Taylor St Map Q3 (415) 551-2000 www.shnsf.com

Cost Plus World Market The original world import mart that set the trend for all the others. It can still surprise with a well-chosen item from some faraway land. d 2552 Taylor St Map K3 (415) 928-6200

Called festive and spacious, this place really is a ray of sunshine. Bright colors and cheerful patterns greet you around every corner, and the staff is just a nice as can be. An especially great place to bring the kids. d 3100 Webster St Map E2

This section of the coast is amazingly wild, especially considering that it is actually within the city limits. Note that portions of the hike are very rugged, so dress accordingly, with good footwear.

last second ski Called festive and spacious, this place really is a ray of sunshine. Bright colors and cheerful patt





Embarcadero Center These four skyscrapers are primarily office towers, but on the lower and promenade levels there are over 125 shops and restaurants, from newsstands and coffee bars to a Gap. The choice tends toward the major chains. d Embarcadero & Battery, Sacramento & Clay sts Map N6

Called festive and spacious, this place really last second ski is a ray of sunshine. Bright colors and cheerful patterns last second ski greet you around every corner, and the staff is just a nice as can be. An especially great place to bring the kids. d 3100 Webster St Map E2

$ Oceanfront Parks Lincoln Park, Land s End, and Sutro Heights last second ski Park are large green areas that overlook and hug the coast all along this northwestern corner of the peninsula. Stupendous Lincoln Park is the work of the indefatigable John McClaren (see p21), and features coastal trails affording some of the best views of the Golden Gate Bridge. Land s End is a surprisingly rugged and wild stretch along the coastal cliffs that features a stony, picturesque cove, stretches of broad sand, and truly spectacular hiking. Gardens, statuary, and walls of the old Sutro estate still decorate Sutro Heights Park, dominating last second ski the entire coastal scene from its dramatic vantage last second ski point. d Map A3

Potrero Hill At one time this usually sunny SoMa hill was set to become the next big thing. But somehow its isolation kept that from ever happening, cut off from the rest of the city, as it is, by freeways last second ski on three sides and its own precipitous inclines. last second ski Consequently, it has remained the quiet, pleasant neighborhood it always has been, with spectacular views. To be sure, a few more upmarket concerns are located here than before, and there are more restaurants last second ski and bars, but mostly it s thoroughly residential. However there are a few tourist sights that beckon here the Anchor Brewing Company is worth the tour, and the Basic Brown Bear Factory is a hit with kids. d Map H5 Anchor Brewing Company: 1705 Mariposa St; Map H5 (415) 863-8350 Basic Brown Bear Factory: 2801 Leavenworth St, Floor 2; Map H5 (866) 5BB-BEAR

vile de vanzare constanta This is the smallest and most luxurious of the four city Hyatts, and it is situated very near the wa





North Beach s biggest bargain is full of charms. Each room is decorated with antiques, vile de vanzare constanta and the corridors feature brass railings and hanging plants under skylights. Every room has its own sink, while other facilities are down the hall. d 2237 Mason St

This is the smallest and most luxurious of the four city Hyatts, and it is situated very near the waterfront. Rooms have good views of the Bay Bridge or the city, if you get the right ones. You ll find that staff greet you by name and the rooms have personal touches.

montague k12 *Ghirardelli Square Housing over 70 restaurants and shops, this former chocolate factory has become





*Ghirardelli Square Housing over 70 restaurants and shops, this former chocolate factory has become one of the most frequented destinations in Fisherman s Wharf. The stores range from tourist TT TTshirt shops to fine jewelry boutiques (see p13). d 900 North Point St Map K1

Golden Gate Theater This former movie house, designed with Moorish influ ences in the 1920s, is one of the larger mainstream theaters. Its usual offerings are traveling Broadway shows most recently, hits imported from New York have included a revival of Damn Yankees, starring Jerry Lewis. d 1 Taylor St Map Q3 (415) 551-2000 www.shnsf.com

puerto morelos nightlife In these days of deregulation and airlines squeezing out travel agencies, finding bargain flights is





In these days of deregulation puerto morelos nightlife and airlines squeezing out travel agencies, finding bargain flights is anybody s game. Most people find that the best bet is the Internet, but don t fail to contact local and national discount shops, too.

Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption The exterior of this 1971 building has been compared to a giant washing machine; inside is equally odd, with stained glass strips, evoking the four elements, and a sculpture of aluminum rods (see p47). d 1111 Gough St Map F3 (415) 567-2020 puerto morelos nightlife Services: 6:45am, 8am, 12:10pm Mon Sat; 7:30am, 9am, 11am Sun Dis. access Free

*Fillmore puerto morelos nightlife Auditorium One of the legendary homes of psychedelic rock during the 1960s. Along with the Avalon Ballroom and the Winterland (both now gone), this is where the San Francisco Sound found its first audience. d 1805 Geary Blvd Map E3

adriatic club The Great Highway Broad and straight, this coast highway begins at Cliff House at the northern end a





San Francisco s Top 10op 65 Top 10 Sunday Brunch Venues !Dottie s True Blue Caf A Tenderloin adriatic club tradition stand in line for the American breakfasts. d 522 Jones St Map P3 Dis. access Closed Tue @Sears Fine Foods A Union Square institu- tion, noted for its silver-dollar pancakes (see p91). Ella s Expect lines at this break fast haven, specializing in chicken hash and banana pancakes. d 500 Presidio adriatic club Ave Map E3 Dis. access $Mama s on Washington Square The greatest French toast in town.d 1701 Stockton St Map L4 Dis. access %Miss Millie s A favorite brunch venue with splendid fare, especially big cinnamon buns. d 4123 24th St Map E6 Dis. access ^It s Tops Coffee Shop A classic diner their flapjacks are famously good. d 1801 Market St Map F4 &Kelly s Mission Rock Enjoy the old SoMa port while eating a variety of egg- based dishes. d 817 China Basin Map H4 Dis. access *Kate s Kitchen Huge portions of breakfast specialties, including a French Toast Orgy. d 471 Haight St Map F4 Dis. access (Chloe s Caf Banana, walnut or pecan pancakes. d 1 399 Church St at 26th Map F6 )The Depot This caf and bookstore is housed in an old train depot. adriatic club d 87 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley, Marin County Dis. access There are several cruises each weekend adriatic club around the Bay, offeringThere are several cruises each weekend around the Bay, offeringThere are several cruises each weekend around the Bay offeringTh l i h k d d th B ff i champagne brunches. Telephone (415) 788-9100 for details.pg p ( )champagne brunches Telephone (415) 788-9100 for detailschampagne brunches Telephone (415) 788 9100 for details San Francisco s Top 10op 65 Top 10 Sunday Brunch Venues !Dottie s True Blue Caf A Tenderloin tradition stand in line for the American breakfasts. d 522 Jones St Map P3 Dis. access Closed Tue @Sears Fine Foods A Union Square institu- tion, noted for its silver-dollar pancakes (see p91). Ella s Expect lines at this break fast haven, specializing in chicken hash and banana pancakes. d 500 Presidio Ave Map E3 Dis. access $Mama s on Washington Square adriatic club The greatest French toast in town.d 1701 Stockton St Map L4 Dis. access %Miss Millie s A favorite brunch venue with splendid fare, especially big cinnamon buns. d 4123 24th St Map E6 Dis. access ^It s Tops Coffee Shop A classic diner their flapjacks are famously good. d 1801 Market adriatic club St Map F4 &Kelly s Mission Rock Enjoy the old SoMa port while eating a variety of egg- based dishes. d 817 China Basin Map H4 Dis. access *Kate s Kitchen Huge portions of breakfast specialties, adriatic club including a French Toast Orgy. d 471 Haight St Map F4 Dis. access (Chloe s Caf Banana, walnut or pecan pancakes. d 1 399 Church St at 26th Map F6 )The Depot This caf and bookstore is housed in an old train depot. d 87 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley, Marin County Dis. access There are several cruises each weekend around the Bay, offeringThere are several cruises each weekend around the Bay, offeringThere are several cruises each weekend around the Bay offeringTh l i h k d d th B ff i champagne brunches. Telephone adriatic club (415) 788-9100 for details.pg p ( )champagne brunches Telephone (415) 788-9100 for detailschampagne brunches Telephone (415) 788 9100 for details Brainwash

The Great Highway Broad and straight, this coast highway begins at Cliff House at the northern end and eventually meets the famous Highway 1, which takes you, via dramatic cliffs, down to Half Moon Bay, Santa Cruz, Monte rey, Carmel, Big Sur and eventually, to Mexico. d Map A4

have sommeliers, so you can usually depend on their wine choices to go with what you have ordered. If you choose your own wine, remember that California wines are identified by grape rather than by region. If beer is more your thing, there are excellent local brews that compete very well with the best European products. And don t forget to try the local mineral waters (see p67).

Coit Tower Perched on Telegraph Hill, this Art Deco sentinel takes the form of a giant fluted column. Reminiscent of Renaissance towers, the column is 63-meters tall and is perforated around adriatic club the top with arched openings and

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Pacific Heights A grander, more exclusive residential area is hard to imagine. Commanding as it does heights up to 300 ft (100 m) overlooking the magnificent Bay, everything about it proclaims power and wealth. The blocks between Alta Plaza and Lafayette Park are the very heart of the area, but the grandeur extends from Gough to Divisadero and beyond. rates to go uk On a sunny day, there s nothing more exhilarating than scaling its hills and taking in the perfectly manicured streets, rates to go uk the

Mount View Hotel & Spa A stay in this historic 1917 resort offers various relaxation and rejuvenation possibilities mud, milk, or herbal baths, aromatherapy steam showers, body-wraps, massages, rates to go uk or facials geared to individuals or couples. d 1457 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga (707) 9425789 www.mountviewhotel.com

The Presidio This vast swathe of greenery has only recently entered the city s repertoire of parklands. It has the potential to be even more amazing than Golden Gate Park, providing that the Right decisions are made by the Presidio Trust, whose job it is to make the new national park financially self sufficient by 2013. The war of words and proposals is raging at the moment, mostly over exactly how commercialized the property should be allowed to become (see p95).

1112 Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg Bars and Clubs Left The Bar on Castro Right Destino !Lucky rates to go uk 13 A chill-out punk bar where you can sport your new tattoo to an admiring audience. The jukebox is full of indie alternative sounds. d 2140 Market St at Church rates to go uk Map F4 (415) 487-1313 @DNA Lounge The recent return rates to go uk of this clubbers favorite brings with it a juiced-up sound system, five bar areas, and a bigger dance floor. Webcasts of live concerts rates to go uk and DJ events, too. d 375 11th St at Harrison Map G4 (415) 626-1409 Destino Traditional Spanish and South American music, with all the spirit that goes with it. Great drinks and Latino rates to go uk food, too (see p67). d 1815 Market St Map F4 (415) 552-4451 rates to go uk $The Bar on Castro A friendly gay mix of young and old make this dark, very central bar one of the most popular on the street. It s only a bar no food or music and as such a great place to begin your evening s revelries. d 456 Castro rates to go uk St Map E5 (415) 626-7220 %Azie East meets West here, as the feng shui interior (tilted mirrors over the bar for watching your back), sake martinis, and nine bites nibbles would confirm. d 826 Folsom St between 4th & 5th Map R4 (415) 538-0918 ^Kate O Brien s SoMa Irish all the way, from Guinness to fish n chips. The pub is large, the regulars relaxed and satisfied it s a great place to kick back after a busy day. d 579 Howard St between 1st & 2nd Map P6 (415) 882-7240 &The Knockout A comfortable and stylish place with artwork, cool decor, and an attractive back bar. DJs and live music weekly. d 3223 Mission St Map F6 (415) 550-6994 *Amber Bar and Cocktail rates to go uk Lounge rates to go uk A place to mellow out on astrological cocktails, one specially concocted for each sign. It s the Age of Aquarius here, with the midnight blue and purple velvet decor, complete with starry galaxies. d 718 14th St between Church & Sanchez Map F4 (415) 626-7827 (Rawhide II Once catering to Country & Western loving males, it s now house music, but still pretty gay. The decor remains Wild West with a great patio. d 280 7th St at Folsom Map R3 (415) 621-1197 )Lit Proving there s something for everyone South of Market, the interior of this ornate cocktail lounge is replicated rates to go uk Victorian-era style. Music includes house and techno. d 101 6th St at Mission Map R3 (415) 278-0940 1112 Around Town Southern rates to go uk Neighborhoodsg rates to go uk Bars and Clubs Left The Bar on Castro Right Destino !Lucky 13 A chill-out punk bar where you can sport your new tattoo to an admiring audience. The jukebox is full of indie alternative sounds. d 2140 Market St at Church Map F4 (415) 487-1313 @DNA Lounge The recent return of this clubbers favorite rates to go uk brings with it a juiced-up sound system, five bar areas, and a bigger dance floor. Webcasts of live concerts and DJ events, too. d 375 11th St at Harrison rates to go uk Map G4 (415) 626-1409 Destino Traditional Spanish and South American music, rates to go uk with all the spirit that goes with it. Great drinks and Latino food, too (see p67). d 1815 Market St Map F4 (415) 552-4451 $The Bar on Castro A friendly gay mix of young and old make this dark, very central rates to go uk bar one of the most popular on the street. It s only a bar no food or music and as such a great place to begin your evening s revelries. d 456 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-7220 rates to go uk %Azie East meets West here, as the feng shui interior (tilted mirrors over the bar for watching your back), sake martinis, and nine bites nibbles would confirm. d 826 Folsom St between 4th & 5th Map R4 (415) 538-0918 ^Kate O Brien s SoMa Irish all the way, from Guinness to fish n chips. The pub is large, the regulars relaxed and satisfied it s a great place to kick back after a busy day. d 579 Howard St between 1st & 2nd Map P6 (415) 882-7240 &The Knockout A comfortable and stylish place with artwork, cool decor, and an attractive back bar. DJs and live music weekly. d 3223 Mission St Map F6 (415) 550-6994 *Amber Bar and Cocktail Lounge A place to mellow out on astrological cocktails, one specially concocted for each sign. It s the Age of Aquarius here, with the midnight blue and purple velvet decor, complete with starry rates to go uk galaxies. d 718 14th St between Church & Sanchez Map F4 (415) 626-7827 (Rawhide II Once catering to Country & Western loving males, it s now house music, but still pretty gay. The decor remains rates to go uk Wild West with a great patio. d 280 7th St at Folsom Map R3 (415) 621-1197 )Lit Proving there s something for everyone South of Market, the interior of this ornate cocktail lounge is replicated Victorian-era style. Music includes house and techno. d 101 6th St at Mission Map R3 (415) 278-0940

adriatic weather forecast Since so many San Franciscans are apartment dwellers, nearly every block has a cheap laundromat hand





Russian Treasure A delightful shop specializing in all that is colorful and whim sical from Old Russia, adriatic weather forecast including the famous nested adriatic weather forecast dolls. d The Cannery, 2nd Floor, 2801 Leavenworth St Map J2 (415) 346-1104

The nine rooms here are all cozily decorated and have names such as The Cabrillo Room and the Sir Francis Suite. Janis Joplin (see p55) used to stay in the Joplin Room, which has its own sundeck. d 135 Gough St

Since so many San Franciscans are apartment dwellers, nearly every block has a cheap laundromat handy. Wash cycles run about 15 20 minutes and dryers 20 30 minutes. Watch your things, however, since theft is not unknown.

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The Building The museum building is an outstanding example of modern design. Opened in 1969, it is composed of reinforced concrete and consists of three levels of tiered terraces. To soften the angularity, roof gardens have been planted, accented with sculpture.

*Francis Ford Coppola Another native son, the director of The Godfather makes San Francisco the home of his Zoetrope productions, and has also branched out into other enterprises. His Niebaum- robin montague Coppola winery in the Napa Valley is one of the best.

Rooftop Children s Center and Carousel Located atop the west wing of the Moscone Center, this complex is all about children. The carousel dates from 1906. There s also an ice skating rink, a bowling center, a learning garden, and an amphitheater. d 750 Folsom robin montague St Map Q5

Potrero Hill At one time this usually sunny SoMa hill was set to become robin montague the next big thing. But somehow its isolation kept that from ever happening, robin montague cut off from the rest of the city, as it is, by freeways on three sides and its own precipitous inclines. Consequently, it has remained the quiet, pleasant neighborhood it always has been, with spectacular views. To be sure, a few more upmarket concerns are located here than before, and there are more restaurants and bars, but mostly it s thoroughly residential. However there are a few tourist sights that beckon robin montague here the Anchor Brewing Company is worth the tour, and the Basic Brown Bear Factory is a hit with kids. d Map H5 Anchor Brewing Company: 1705 Mariposa St; Map H5 (415) 863-8350 Basic Brown Bear Factory: 2801 Leavenworth St, Floor 2; Map H5 (866) 5BB-BEAR

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Restaurant waiting staff depend on their tips to make a living the salary moon valley real estate paid is barely a tenth of what is needed to make ends meet. The usual gratuity is 15 perr rr cent, though you can reduce it to 10 percent if the service was not to your liking. Taxi drivers should be tipped about 15 percent, moon valley real estate and hotel staff should receive $1 whenever they provide any sort of service.

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals 91 Places to Eat Above Tablespoon !The Dining Room The setting, the service, and the food all live up to the Ritz name (see p62). d Ritz-Carlton Hotel, moon valley real estate 600 Stockton Street Map P4 (415) 773-6198 moon valley real estate Dis. access $$$$$ @Tommy Toy s Haute Cuisine Chinoise This elegant moon valley real estate institution serves marvelous fare in a sumptuous setting. The cuisine is a melding moon valley real estate of Chinese and French. d 655 Montgomery St Map N5 (415) 397- 4888 Dis. access $$$$ Rubicon A chic environment moon valley real estate in which to enjoy some of the city s best cuisine and wines. California- French in inspiration (see p62). d 558 Sacramento St Map N5 (415) 434- 4100 Closed Sun Dis. Access $$$$ $One Market The views of the Bay s lights are spectacular at night, and the food memorable. d 1 Market St at Steuart Map N6 (415) 777-5577 Closed Sun Dis. access $$$$ %Tablespoon This intimate, urbane moon valley real estate restaurant offers seasonal, moon valley real estate contemporary American cooking. d 2209 Polk St Q1 (415) 268-0140 Dis. access $$ ^US Restaurant Everything served here is simple and authentically Italian. d 515 Columbus Ave Map L4 (415) 397-5200 $$ &Capp s Corner Serves one of the most authentic minestrones outside of Italy. d 1600 Powell St Map L4 (415) 989-2589 Dis. access $$ *Sears Fine Food This 1950s retro coffee shop is always good for a quick fill-up (see p65). d 439 Powell St Map P4 (415) 986-0700/1160 Closed Tue Wed Dis. access $ (Clown Alley Solid American diner food burgers, hot dogs, French fries, shakes, and wine and beer, too. d 42 Columbus Ave Map M5 (415) 421-2540 No credit cards Dis. access $ )Ponzu This Asian-style tapas restaurant, with bar, has an eclectic choice of pan-Asian cuisine served on small plates perfect for sharing. d 401 Taylor Street Map P3 (415) 775-7979 Closed L $$$ Around Town Downtown

San Francisco s Top 10p Chinatown This teeming, moon valley real estate densely populated neighborhood, with its bright fa ades, noisy markets, exotic temples, and ethnic restaurants and shops, is like a city within the city and a place every visit to San Francisco moon valley real estate must include. The atmosphere recalls a typical southern Chinese moon valley real estate town, although the architec- ture, customs, and public celebrations are distinctly American hybrids on a Cantonese theme. Overlook the tourist tackiness, check out some of the side alleys, and give yourself moon valley real estate time to take it all in. 18 Top 10 Sights 1 Chinatown Gate 2 Portsmouth Square 3 Golden moon valley real estate Gate Fortune moon valley real estate Cookies Company 4 Old Chinese Telephone Exchange 5 Temples 6 Stockton Street Chinese Markets 7 Chinese Six Companies 8 Chinese Historical Society of America moon valley real estate Museum and Learning Center 9 Chinese Culture Center 0 St Mary s Square !Chinatown Gate A gift from Taiwan in 1970, this triple-pagoda southern entrance to Chinatown (above) was inspired by traditional Chinese village gates. Golden Gate Fortune Cookies Company Fortune cookies were invented in San Francisco. Stop by to watch how the skillful workers (left) slip the fortune message in the cookie mixture, then fold it into the traditional shapes. @Portsmouth Square This was San Francisco s original town square here, on July 9, 1846, the US flag was first raised moon valley real estate on the Bay, when the port was seized from Mexico. moon valley real estate Locals now use the area for t ai chi and games of mah-jong. The finest Chinese antiques shops are found at the ChinatownThe finest Chinese antiques shops are found at the ChinatownThe finest Chinese antiques shops are found at the ChinatownTh fi t Chi ti h f d t th Chi t Gate end of Grant Avenue, just inside the gate.,j gGate end of Grant Avenue just inside the gate Gate end of Grant Avenue just inside the gate San Francisco s Top 10p Chinatown This teeming, densely populated moon valley real estate neighborhood, with its bright fa ades, noisy markets, exotic temples, and ethnic restaurants and shops, is like a city within the city and a place every visit to San Francisco must include. The atmosphere recalls a typical southern Chinese town, although the architec- ture, customs, and public celebrations are distinctly American hybrids on a Cantonese theme. Overlook the tourist tackiness, check out some of the side alleys, and give yourself time to take it all in. 18 Top 10 Sights 1 Chinatown Gate 2 Portsmouth Square 3 Golden Gate Fortune Cookies Company 4 Old Chinese Telephone Exchange 5 Temples 6 Stockton Street Chinese Markets moon valley real estate 7 Chinese Six Companies 8 Chinese Historical Society of America Museum and Learning Center 9 Chinese Culture Center 0 St Mary s Square !Chinatown Gate A gift from Taiwan in 1970, this triple-pagoda southern entrance to Chinatown (above) was inspired by traditional Chinese village gates. Golden Gate Fortune Cookies Company Fortune cookies were invented in San Francisco. moon valley real estate Stop by to watch how the skillful workers (left) slip the fortune message in the cookie mixture, then fold it into the traditional shapes. @Portsmouth Square This was San Francisco s original town square here, on July 9, 1846, the US flag was first raised on the Bay, when the port was seized from Mexico. Locals now use the area for t ai chi and games of mah-jong. moon valley real estate The finest Chinese antiques shops are found at the ChinatownThe finest Chinese antiques shops are found at the ChinatownThe finest Chinese antiques shops are found at the ChinatownTh fi t Chi ti h f d t th Chi t Gate end of Grant Avenue, just inside the gate.,j gGate end of Grant Avenue moon valley real estate just inside the gate Gate end of Grant Avenue just inside the gate

& African Hall Magnificent dioramas show a range of African fauna, such as cheetahs, rhinos, lions, giraffes, and the straight-horned oryx, in their natural surroundings. The exhibit ends with a fine colony of African penguins, which can be viewed through a vast window.

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! Indian adriatic grill Springs Indian adriatic grill Springs tradition of purification and healing began over 8,000 years ago, when Native Americans built sweat lodges here over escaping steam. The ancient tradition continues in the historic 1913 bathhouse, restored to pristine condition. Inside, thermal geysers warm volcanic ash in mud baths, and soothing music is played in the treatment rooms. adriatic grill d 1712 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga (707) 942-4913 www.indianspringscalistoga.com

Streetsmart 1446 Neighborhood Hotels Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, adriatic grill all hotels accept creditUnless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditUnless otherwise stated all hotels accept creditU l th i t t d ll h t l t dit cards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning, gcards adriatic grill and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioningcards and have en suite bathrooms and air conditioning $Stanyan Park Hotel Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this noble Victorian has been receiving guests since 1904. Right on Golden Gate Park. Decorated in period style, breakfast and afternoon tea are included. d 750 Stanyan St Map D4 (415) 751- 1000 www.stanyanpark. com No air conditioning Dis. access $$ %Phoenix Hotel The place that Johnny Depp, REM, and the late John F. Kennedy, Jr, have all chosen to stay when they ve visited the city might be to your liking, too. Located a bit too close to the Tender- loin for all but the most self assured. Breakfast included, as well as parking. d 601 Eddy St Map Q2 (415) 776-1380 www.jdvhospitality.com Dis. access $$ ^Tuscan Inn It s a Best Western, but one of the stylish ones. Located right in Fisherman s Wharf, staying here takes some of the touristy edge off the neighborhood. Features include a mirrored wall in each room, free coffee, tea, and biscuits, and a complimentary limousine service. d 425 North Point St Map K3 (415) 561- 1100 www.tuscaninn.com Dis. access $$ &Seal Rock Inn

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Talk about trendy in this town and all converr rr sations will lead to the W hotel. Minimalist with luxury touches throughout. Rooms have cordless phones and CD players. The clientele that come for drinks and general confabulation are modish trendsetters too.

Retreat cashfiesta download Resort Located in the beautiful Russian River area, this peaceful setting in the Sonoma cashfiesta download County Redwoods offers a reinvigorating retreat from modern life. Body treatments include the Sonoma Salt Glow, Moor Mud Wrap, Desert Heat Body Wrap, Body Polish, Aromatherapy Cocoon, Retreat Wrap, and the Anti- Stress Back Treatment, each lasting approximately one hour. Included in your stay are exclusive use of the pool, Jacuzzi and private meadow, and evening wine-tastings on selected weekends. d 14711 Armstrong Woods Rd, Guerneville (707) 869-2706 www.retreatresort.biz

(415) 285-0323 cashfiesta download *Ruby Skye A Victorian playhouse has been restored in lavish high-tech coolness, incorporating a capti vating blend of Art Nouveau and Dali-esque Modernism. And where else can you see trapeze acts on a Saturday night or puff cigars in a private billiards room? If you want to fit in, wear designer cashfiesta download gear. d 420 Mason St Map P3 (415) 693-0777 cashfiesta download Dis. access

San Francisco s Top 10p Fisherman s Wharf A certain aura of authenticity still clings to San Francisco s old wharf area, but you ll have to look closely to find the historic details mostly, it has been overwhelmed by tourism. Nevertheless, it s fun to get a walkaway crab cock- tail and a chunk of sourdough bread, and to sidestep the crowds to check out the few remaining fishing boats that still haul in their daily bounty. And after all, what s so bad about taking home a few San Francisco souvenirs? 12 Top 10 Sights 1 Ghirardelli Square 2 Anchorage Shopping Center 3 The Cannery 4 Pier 39 5 USS Pampanito 6 Fisherman s and Seaman s Memorial Chapel 7 Fish Alley 8 Aquarium of the Bay 9 Boudin Bakery 0 Ripley s Believe it or Not! and Wax Museum !Ghirardelli Square The Ghirardelli family ran a chocolate factory here from 1859 to 1962. The site (below) is now home to upscale shops and eateries (see pp96 7). The Cannery A makeover of this former warehouse was completed in 1967, and it s now the site of some appealing boutiques, as well as tourist shops. @Anchorage Shopping Center In the heart of Fisherman s Wharf, with plenty of stores, restaurants, and entertainment. $Pier 39 Built over a disused pier, this 1978 commercial venture became an instant success for promoting tourism in the wharf area (below). Two floors of shops and eateries, with a large central promenade complete with an antique Venetian carousel, cashfiesta download keep drawing in thecrowds. Don t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksDon t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksDon t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksD t i th d f ild li th t l d th d k just to the west of Pier 39.jjust to the west of Pier 39just to the west of Pier 39 San Francisco s Top 10p Fisherman s Wharf A certain aura of authenticity still clings to San Francisco s old wharf area, but you ll have to look closely to find the historic details mostly, it has been overwhelmed by tourism. Nevertheless, it s fun to get a walkaway crab cock- tail and a chunk of sourdough bread, and to sidestep the crowds to check out the few remaining fishing boats that still haul in their daily bounty. And after all, what s so bad about taking home a few San Francisco souvenirs? 12 Top 10 Sights 1 Ghirardelli Square 2 Anchorage Shopping Center 3 The Cannery 4 Pier 39 5 USS Pampanito 6 Fisherman s and Seaman cashfiesta download s Memorial Chapel 7 Fish Alley 8 Aquarium of the Bay 9 Boudin Bakery 0 Ripley s Believe it or Not! and Wax Museum !Ghirardelli Square The Ghirardelli family ran a chocolate factory here from 1859 to 1962. The site (below) is now home to upscale shops and eateries cashfiesta download (see pp96 7). The Cannery A makeover of this former warehouse cashfiesta download was completed in 1967, and it s now the site of some appealing boutiques, as well as tourist shops. @Anchorage Shopping Center In the heart of Fisherman s Wharf, with plenty cashfiesta download of stores, restaurants, and entertainment. $Pier 39 Built over a disused pier, this 1978 commercial venture became an instant success for promoting tourism in the wharf area (below). Two floors of shops and eateries, with a large central promenade complete with an antique Venetian carousel, keep drawing in thecrowds. Don t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksDon cashfiesta download t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksDon t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docksD t i th d f ild li th t l d th d k just to the west of Pier 39.jjust to the west of Pier 39just to the west of Pier 39

steven montague To use Muni, you can either get the CityPass, or you can purchase Muni Passports for 1 day, 3 days,





To use Muni, you can either get the CityPass, or you can purchase Muni Passports for 1 day, 3 days, 7 days, or a full month. The bus system is simple to use and will get you around steven montague this compact metropolis in good time, though rarely on schedule. Many bus stops have local bus route maps, as well as maps of the system as a whole. d (415) 673-6864

Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise steven montague stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless otherwise stated all restaurants accept credit U l th i t t d ll t t t dit cards and serve vegetarian mealsgcards and serve vegetarian mealscards and serve vegetarian meals Around Town The Bay Areaay 9129 Places to Eat Above Piazza d Angelo !The Lark Creek Inn The redwood-shaded garden loveliness of this Marin hideaway is impossible to fault. The food is innovative New American cuisine such as roasted parsnip soup with black truffles (see p63). d 234 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur Hwy 101 (415) 924-7766 Dis. Access $$$ @Piazza d Angelo steven montague This first-rate Italian has a creative menu and a fine selection of wines. Indoor and outdoor seating, a lavish dessert cart, and a very happening feel. d 22 Miller Ave, Mill Valley Off Hwy 101 (415) 388-2000 Dis. Access $$ Las Camelias Everything here is home- made and unusual. The decor is particularly appealing, most of the art being the work of the charming hostess-owner. d 912 Lincoln steven montague Ave, San Rafael steven montague Hwy 101 (415) 453-5850 Dis. Access $$ $The Bridgeway Caf Great for breakfast or lunch; steven montague you ll find a range of American favorites at this cozy little diner looking right out onto the Bay. d 633 Bridgeway, steven montague Sausalito Hwy 101 (415) 332-3426 Dis. Access $ %Parkside Creative American brunch at picnic tables on the patio, or in the dining room. Try the barbecued glazed salmon with wild rice. d 43 Arenal Ave, Stinson Beach Hwy 1 (415) 868-1272 Dis. Access $$ Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless otherwise stated all restaurants accept credit U l th i t t d ll t t t dit cards and serve vegetarian mealsgcards and serve vegetarian mealscards and serve vegetarian meals Around Town The Bay Areaay 9129 Places to Eat Above Piazza d Angelo !The Lark Creek Inn The redwood-shaded garden loveliness steven montague of this Marin hideaway is impossible to fault. The food is innovative New American cuisine such as roasted parsnip soup with black truffles (see p63). d 234 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur Hwy 101 (415) 924-7766 Dis. Access $$$ @Piazza d Angelo This first-rate Italian has a creative menu and a fine selection of wines. Indoor and outdoor seating, a lavish dessert cart, and a very happening feel. d 22 Miller Ave, Mill Valley Off Hwy 101 (415) 388-2000 Dis. Access $$ Las Camelias Everything here is home- made and unusual. The decor is particularly appealing, most of the art being the work of the charming hostess-owner. d 912 Lincoln Ave, San Rafael Hwy 101 (415) 453-5850 Dis. Access $$ $The Bridgeway Caf Great for breakfast or lunch; steven montague you ll find a range of American favorites at this cozy little diner looking right out onto the Bay. d 633 Bridgeway, Sausalito Hwy 101 (415) 332-3426 Dis. Access $ %Parkside Creative American brunch at picnic tables on the patio, or in the dining room. Try the barbecued glazed salmon with wild rice. d 43 Arenal Ave, Stinson Beach Hwy 1 (415) 868-1272 Dis. Access $$ ^Chez Panisse A very popular Berkeley spot which has been serving steven montague up excellent California cuisine since 1971. The upstairs cafe offers a cheaper alternative. d 1517 Shattuck Ave, Berkeley Hwy 80 (510) 548-5525 Closed Sun $$$